A History of the Orthodox Church of Cyprus

The Roots of Teresa’s Nuns in the Philippines – Volume 1 – Page 425books.google.com.ph › books

Mary Teresa Sideco – 1993 – ‎Snippet view
A few stories , years ago , recount how Sr . Laurentia would have doors slammed to her face by some ill – mannered maids ; or the dogs set upon her … This was of course years ago when the monastery was being built and it had no revenue at all except the alms given and collected . … But during her ailing days , as the Sisters took her around for her needed exercise , she would talk fondly of her father …

Country Life – Volume 125 – Page 1150books.google.com.ph › books

1959 – ‎Snippet view – ‎More editions
As to a dog’s behaviour in a reputedly haunted house : most houses emit noises owing to shifting materials, … The choir in mediaeval cathedrals and monastic churches was the part of the church in which the daily offices were said or sung.

A History of the Orthodox Church of Cyprus

HE CHURCH OF CYPRUS

Van Brnyn
(ExcerptaCypria, p. 9).

HierideB,p. 86.

considers Italian in style, as the handsomest building of its kind in the whole island. In plan the structure consists of a square enclosure separated into two courts by the church. Saint John Chrysostom on Mount Kutzuventi in the Ky- renian range is a dependency of the monastery of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem, and receives its president from the parent establishment. Its origin and the date of its foundation are both alike unknown. That it is of very considerable antiquity is evident from the fact that Neophytos, the founder of En klistra, commenced his monastic career there in a.d. 1152. According to popular tradition it was erected by a princess, who is said to have also constructed as a residence the Castle of Buffavento upon the summit of the range immediately above it. This lady, who is represented as suffering from some skin disease, had a little dog, which was her constant companion in hermountain retreat. This animal was at length attacked by the same complaint which had already seized upon its mistress. As soon as this happened it was observed to descend the mountain daily and, after a few hours1 absence, return much benefited by its trip. It was in consequence watched and seen to bathe in a spring close by the place where the monastery was subsequently built. The princess noticing the good effect wrought upon her pet by the water resolved to try the remedy herself. So efficacious did it prove that in a few days she was restored to her former health. As a mark of gratitude to God for her marvellous recovery she erected the monastery near the healing waters and dedicated it to Saint John Chrysostom. This fountain still exists within the precincts of the monastery and is said to have lost none of its medicinal properties. A somewhat similar legend exists regarding another mineral spring in the village of Skil- loura in the Nahieh of Morphou.1 In this case it is said that a certain nobleman in ancient times had a dog suffering from themange, which was healed after its owner had one day by chance washed it with water from a sulphur spring in the village. This fountain still exists within the church, and is much resorted to by persons suffering from cutaneous disorders. The village itself derives its name from the incident, while the church is dedicated to the Virgin under the title of the Panagia Skillouriotissa. Whether the story has really been invented to account for the 1 The ancient name of this village, which appears to have been Kvvapla, may possibly have given rise to the legend. Indeed its modern appellation, XKvXXovpa, the Dog’s Tail, (Cf. Bobs oiipd) seems to recall it also.

356

THE CHURCH OF CYPRUS

Van Brnyn
(ExcerptaCypria, p. 9).

HierideB,p. 86.

considers Italian in style, as the handsomest building of its kind in the whole island. In plan the structure consists of a square enclosure separated into two courts by the church. Saint John Chrysostom on Mount Kutzuventi in the Ky- renian range is a dependency of the monastery of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem, and receives its president from the parent establishment. Its origin and the date of its foundation are both alike unknown. That it is of very considerable antiquity is evident from the fact that Neophytos, the founder of En klistra, commenced his monastic career there in a.d. 1152. According to popular tradition it was erected by a princess, who is said to have also constructed as a residence the Castle of Buffavento upon the summit of the range immediately above it. This lady, who is represented as suffering from some skin disease, had a little dog, which was her constant companion in hermountain retreat. This animal was at length attacked by the same complaint which had already seized upon its mistress. As soon as this happened it was observed to descend the mountain daily and, after a few hours1 absence, return much benefited by its trip. It was in consequence watched and seen to bathe in a spring close by the place where the monastery was subsequently built. The princess noticing the good effect wrought upon her pet by the water resolved to try the remedy herself. So efficacious did it prove that in a few days she was restored to her former health. As a mark of gratitude to God for her marvellous recovery she erected the monastery near the healing waters and dedicated it to Saint John Chrysostom. This fountain still exists within the precincts of the monastery and is said to have lost none of its medicinal properties. A somewhat similar legend exists regarding another mineral spring in the village of Skil- loura in the Nahieh of Morphou.1 In this case it is said that a certain nobleman in ancient times had a dog suffering from themange, which was healed after its owner had one day by chance washed it with water from a sulphur spring in the village. This fountain still exists within the church, and is much resorted to by persons suffering from cutaneous disorders. The village itself derives its name from the incident, while the church is dedicated to the Virgin under the title of the Panagia Skillouriotissa. Whether the story has really been invented to account for the 1 The ancient name of this village, which appears to have been Kvvapla, may possibly have given rise to the legend. Indeed its modern appellation, XKvXXovpa, the Dog’s Tail, (Cf. Bobs oiipd) seems to recall it also.
THE CHURCH OF CYPRUS 357 singular name ofthe village, and the inhabitants have plagiarised from the good monks of Kutzuventi, or vice versa, is a question which must be left unsolved. Pococke relates this legend of the monastery’s foundation some- Pococke, vol what differently : — ” They have a tradition that a Queen of Cyprus, who had the leprosy, chose to live here (i.e. at Buffavento) for the benefit of the air, and that Saint John Chrysostom advising her to build the convent below, she followed his counsel, and was cured of her leprosy ; others add that she bathed in a water there, which is still resorted to by persons in that distemper, who find benefit by it.11 The same traveller gives a description of the place, which, though now 150 years old, still holds good in the main : ” This monastery has been a very large building, though part of it is ruined; there are two churches, one of which, called Saint Helena, is ruinous, the other is covered with a dome, and painted all over within ; it is dedicated to Saint John Chrysostom. Be fore it is a handsome portico, from which there are three doors with fine marble cases, that do not seem to be very ancient ; two sceptres were formerly deposited behind the folding-doors, the figures of which are painted on the wall, and at the bottom there is a place where the crown was kept. All the account they can give is that they belonged to some Queen, and that they were taken away by a Pasha of Cyprus. It is probable that the regalia of Cyprus were kept there.11 The foundress, whose tomb is still pointed out in the church, is said to have been a certain Bavarian lady called Mary of Molino, but this is a very improbable story. There is behind the altar a painting, which represents Saint John presenting a man and woman to the Theotokos. From an inscription at the sakeiiarios, foot of the picture we learn that the two persons depicted above voi.T,’p”i35. were Antonio and Maria di Molino.1 This lady, who was in all likelihood the wife of some Venetian nobleman resident in Cyprus during its occupation by the Republic, may possibly have been a benefactress of the monastery, the hegoumenos of which adopted this method of commemorating her memory. From the fact of her name appearing in the inscription has arisen the legend that she was the foundress of the establishment. The community seems never to have been a large one. When Van Bruyn visited Excerpta it in 1683 it only comprised three priests and eleven monks, 1″H Seytris rys SovXys tov &eov Mapias tov (QiXiinrov) MoXivo KaX ‘ Avtwv’ivov tov QlXiirirov MoXivo.

358 THE CHURCH OF CYPRUS under the rule of a superior, whom he calls a father guardian. M^riM, Mariti in 1767 makes the number of inmates to be from ten to twelve, while the last census shows the total male inhabitants on 6th April, 1891, as thirteen.

Voyagitom. i.
p. 122.

dessaiiitees ^^ rumed monastery of Hagios Nikolaos near the promontory

Aiiemandsde 0f Akrotiri is noteworthy as being perhaps the premier monastic chypre, p. 4. settlement in Cyprus.1 Unfortunately all record of its early history and foundation has perished. That a very remote period may be assigned to it is evident from the mention in connection with it of Kalokairos, who was governor of the island during the reign of Constantine the Great (a.d. 306-a.d. 335). It only ceased to be inhabited within comparatively recent times. The ge viiiamont, Sire de Viiiamont describes it, on the occasion of his visit in p. 2%’.’ ‘ 1589, as being then almost intact, the Turks having in no way injured it when they captured the island, though they killed or expelled the monks.2 The only one of the buildings, however, in any state of repair at the present day is the chapel, which is still used for divine worship by the inhabitants of the district. The same traveller records a curious superstition, by which all the fish in the adjacent salt lake caught on the patron-saint’s 1 II est tres probable que le couvent elev£ autrefois sur le promontoire Curion, le cap aux Chats des modernes, est le premier etablissement de moines qui s’eleva dans l’Orient grec. 2 Parians ainsi l’un a l’autre arrivasmes a l’Abbaye Saint Nicolas cy dessus nommee, laquelle est edifiee joignant la mer, et est restee quasi en son entier, sans que les Tures y ayent fait dommage, lorsqu’ils usurperent Chypre sur les Venitiens en l’annee mil cinq cens septante. Bien vray est qu’ils tuerent et chasserent les Religieux de l’ordre de Saint Basile qui estoient dedans, sans avoir du depuis permis qu’aucun y fit sa demeure, tant ils sont ennemis de la Religion Chrestienne. D’avantage il me recita que lesdits Religieux y nourris- soient grand nombre de chats expressement pour prendre les serpens qui sont aux environs de la plaine, la quelle en produit plus en cest endroit qu’en nul autre endroit de l’isle, et les serpens sont du couleur blanche et noir, et ont pour le moins sept pieds de longueur, et gros comme la jambe d’un homme, de maniere que difficilement je pouvois croire qu’un chat fut victorieux d’une si grande beste, et qu’ils eussent industrie d’aller a la chasse apres eux, et de n’en retourner jusques a ce que la cloche eut sonne a midy, et que si tost qu’ils avoient disne ils continuassent leur chasse jusques au soir, sinon que le Religieux me jura l’avoir veu, ce que m’a depuis este’ confirme de plusieurs autres gens d’honneur, qui l’ont vue de mesme. Depuis que l’Abbaye est demeuree deserte, les chats sont morts par faute de nourriture. Tout aupres de l’Abbaye et de ce cap est une grande pescherie. Le grand Seigneur en tire six mille ducats de ferme chacun an, et ceux qui la tiennent a ferme, sont obligez, selon l’ancienne coustume de donner a la dite Abbaye tout le poisson qu’ils prendront le jour et la nuict de St. Nicolas, autrement ils n’en prendroient pas un seul tout le long de l’annee, ce que tiennent les habitans du pays. Et a cause que ceste Bglise est deshabitee, les fermiers payent ce devoir a l’eglise des Grecs.

THE CHURCH OF CYPRUS 359 day (6th Dec.) were formerly presented to the monastery, the captors being firmly persuaded that they would otherwise have no further luck throughout the ensuing year. In the course of time the brethren acquired a wide-spread reputation not so much for their skill as theologians, nor yet for the strictness of their rule, as for the number of cats they maintained within the precincts of their establishment. During the long drought prior to the Lusignan, visit of Saint Helena the venomous snakes, for which the island5’8 has always been noted, increased to an alarming extent. The place most infested by these pests was the region anciently called Cape Kurias, but since known as the Cape of the Cats (Capo delle Gatte) from the following circumstance.1 Kalokairos, to whom the government of the island had been entrusted at the time, determined to do all he could to remove the plague. Aware of the natural antipathy of cats for snakes he sent 1000 of these animals to the monastery, charging the public revenue with a certain annual sum for their maintenance. So successful was the expedient that the reptiles were almost exterminated. The cats were trained to return morning and evening to the monastery at the sound of a bell for their food, which was placed on long planks containing a series of circular depressions to receive it. At the time when Lusignan lived the brethren still main tained a score of these useful pets, though no urgent need for them seems to have any longer existed. Pococke questions Pococke, vol. • ii d 228 the story, but the evidence is too circumstantial to admit of ” 1 Fu chiamato questo (teneno) capo delle Gatte, perche nelli tempi ehe erano venuti da Costantinopoli li Duchi, come governatori, mandati dalli Im- peratori, et massime il primo al tempo del Magno Costantino, essendo stata 1′ Isola 30 anni, ehe non v’era piovuto, quasi era dishabitata : onde multiplicorno li serpenti, quali in greco si adimandano Cum, et penso ehe siano aspidi sordi : liquali ad una lunatione sono sordi, ad un’altra sono ciechi, et quando sono sordi, non sono ciechi, et quando sono ciechi, non sono sordi, et sono venenosi, et hanno una testa grande, et il corpo non ha ossi, et quando piglia un’ agnello, 6 un capretto, lo manda cosi intiero nella pancia a poco a poco : et dipoi va ad un’ albero, et si storze di qua et di la, insin tanto ehe siano fracassati gli ossi dell’ animale gia mangiato ; et quando more, odora come muschio. — Ma li serpenti Cuffi si ritrovano per l’isola et spesso, et in quelli tempi erano gia generati assai, onde volendo il Duca Callocero esterminarli, perche abondavano assai in questo capo per essere un boschetto, messe piu di mille gatti in San Nicolo detto in greco de’ Acrotiri. II Duca havendovi posti li gatti, li fece anchora la sua provisione, accioche non mangiassero sempre cose venenose, et ehe fussero estirpati : onde mattina et sera erano avezzati al suono della campana, et tutti correano, et haveano apparecchiato in certe asse di legno larghe, et in mezo erano concavi a modo delle scudelle, et di dentro li mettevano le minestre : accio ehe fussero tutte accommodate, dipoi il resto del tempo andavano alia caccia de’ serpenti, et cosi gli hanno estirpati quasi tutti, pero quel Monasterio anchora tiene una vintina de’ gatti, et per questo quel capo fu adimandato il capo delle gatte,

360 THE CHURCH OF CYPRUS doubt. For instance, De Viiiamont owns that he would have found great difficulty in believing it had not his informant sworn to the truth of it from personal knowledge, and his statement been corroborated by others who had also wit nessed it. Marvellous, too, are the reports as to the size of these noxious reptiles. The last-named writer, who describes them as being black and white in colour, asserts that they were at least seven feet in length and as thick as a man’s thigh. Lusignan, however, surpasses him in his flights of imagination. He says that these snakes were called Cuffi by the Greeks, being blind and deaf alternate months, while they were accustomed on swallowing a lamb or a kid, to coil themselves round a tree in order to crush Menxsins. the bones of their victim. But after what Martinus Crusius on IS.lib. i.,

Cyprus,

p-‘tc- ‘the authority of one Stamatius Donatus, a Cypriot, writes con cerning a mysterious kind of beast, which had its habitat on Mount Olympus (Stavro Vouni), we can no longer question the ability of the island mouser to attack and subdue even such formidable opponents as these.1 According to this veracious chronicler there was to be found on that mountain a species of quadruped resembling a snake in the shape of its body and tail, as long as a horse and fairly tall, with a skin so thick as to be impervious to anything but a bullet, which devoured all human beings unfortunate enough to come in its way. The cats used to hunt it either singly or in couples, and to kill it by springing on its back and tearing out the eyes. As one reads this outrageous yarn one cannot help suspecting that his informant was slyly endeavouring to gauge the extent of the worthy Crusius1 credulity.2 The writer at any rate is thankful to think that during a residence of some days on Mount Olympus he never encountered any of these truly alarming monsters. Lujtaan, During the later period of the Latin occupation the Orthodox are said to have possessed in Nikosia four houses for men and ‘Ait, in Olympo, qui solus in Cipro sit mons, animal, corpore et Cauda btpioeiSes, quadrupes, magnum, longitudine equi, et satis altum, robusta pelle, ferrum non curans, sed bombardas, homines obviam venientes devorans : vinci tamen a catto uno, aut duobus, insidiantibus, insilientibus, oculos magnos eruentibus, et necantibus (Martinus Crusius, Turcogrcecice , lib. ii.). Menratua 2 Meursius at least seems to have had considerable doubts as to Donatus’ Cyprus, lib. t, bona fides since, when chronicling another of his flights of imagination, he remarks: ” Imposuit Martino Crusio, viro bono et erudito, Graeculus ille Stamatius Donatus,” an opinion which will find very general acceptance.

THE CHURCH OF CYPRUS 361 the same number for women also.1 Some have since been dis-rui solved, while others have been converted into parish churches, p-41- The names of those for men are : — 1. St. John Bibi. As this establishment will be more fully noticed elsewhere the mere mention of its name here will alone be sufficient. 2. St. George of Mankana,2 situated on the outskirts of strambaldi, Nikosia was constructed by Helena Palaeologos, the Greek con-Iurtgmuli sort of Jean II., about 1453 for the reception of certain fugitive ^ “J*^ monks, who had escaped to the island on the capture of Con-?-3”- stantinople by Mohammed II. After existing for little more than a century it was demolished by the Venetians in 1567 when reconstructing the fortifications of the capital. Its endowment, which originally amounted to 1500 ducats annually, had by the end of the fifteenth century sunk to 600. The foundress hadmst.deohyp., given orders that her interment should take place within the “”‘ walls, but the Dominicans of Nikosia prevented their execution by refusing to deliver up the body. 3. Andrio and 4, Sergi Flatro are the names of the remaining two. According to Kyprianos one of these, though he is un- Kyprfano., certain which, has since been converted into the Church of the Archangel Michael situated in the Tripioti quarter of the town, while all traces of the other seem to have totally disappeared. It was the hegoumenos of Andrio who officiated at all episcopal Lusigan, ordinations in the absence of any of the three remaining Ortho dox prelates.3 But the list is by no means yet exhausted, for in the Consti- Raynaidi, tutio Cypria (a.d. 1260) 4 mention is also made ofthe church orNo. 49.’ 1 Li Religiosi de’ Monaci et Monache di San Basilio sono assai. De’ Monaci in Nicosia sono 4 : Bibi, Andrio, Manchana, et Sergi Flatro. De Monache 4 ; Palluriotissa, hora Santo Magedoni, Ienechio, Santi omnes, et Faneromeni. 2 Et essendo ehe del 1453 ha tuolto l’infidel Turco Costantinopoli, ha fatto gran lamento la signora regina (Helena Paleologo) in Cipro ; et venero in Cipro molte cose buone, et nobili monachi. Ha voluto et ha tuolto et fatto fabricar monasterio, fuori delta citta, nominato san Zorzi de Mangana ; et ha fatto molte intrade nel ditto monasterio, per esser fatte le sue commemorationi ; et cosi fanno fino al presente. Fabrico un Monasterio greco detto Manchana, et donogli dui casali, et ornollo di privilegii. Fece edificare il monastero di Mangana, et li diede casali ed entrate per piu di 1500 ducati all’ anno. 3 Dipoi si fa consecrare da 3 altri vescovi greci, et se non saranno se non due, l’abbate del monasterio di Antrio debba supplire per l’altro absente. 4 Praefato vero Germano archiepiscopo dictas sedem et ecclesiam de Solia, tam in spiritualibus, quam temporalibus, de eisdem consilio et potestate, com- mittimus, sibi retentis semper dignitatis archiepiscopalis honoie ac nomine,

362 THE CHURCH OF CYPRUS monastery of St. Barnabas, which was assigned by Alexander IV. as an alternative residence for the then Orthodox primate, Ger manos, in place of Solea. Moreover the letter written in 1223 by the Oecumenical Patriarch, Germanos, to the Cypriots men tions yet another called Apsinthi (rwv ,A-^riv0Uov). But, as no particulars are given as to its position, it cannot with certainty be included among the monasteries of the capital. Its hegou menos, Leontios, was one of the two delegates sent to Germanos at Nica?a after the expulsion of Archbishop Neophytos by the Latins. The names ofthe houses for women as given by Lusignan are : — 1. Palluriotissa. 2. Ienechio. 3. All Saints, and 4, Phanero mene. The two following lists show the monasteries, classed under their respective dioceses, as existing when Kyprianos wrote, and also at the present, time. The second, which may be regarded as containing the latest information on the subject, being com piled from returns supplied to the Ecclesiastical Properties Commission lately sitting at Nikosia, is given exactly as received by the writer : — The Archbishopric.1 1. Hagia Napa. 2. Mavrovouni. 3. Tochni. 4. Hagios Spyridon. 5. Hagios Anastasios. 6. Avgasis. 7. Kouratha. 8. Chordakii. 9. Apostolos Barnabas. 10. Kantara. 11. Kana- karia. 12. Hagia Photeine. 13. Makedonitissa. 14. Libadiotissa. 15. Neta. 16. Hagios Nikolaos of Davlos. 17. Hagios Kendeas. 18. Maloura. 19. Hagia Thekla. 20. Archangelos of Analionta. 21. Machaera. 22. Prophetes Elias. 23. Hagios Herakleidios. 24. Hagios Mnason. 25. Hagios Panteleemon of Achera. 26. Palourgiotissa.episcopaliter gubernandas ; ita tamen quod ei sit liberum, vel in dicta sede de Solia, vel apud ecclesiam Graecorum beati Barnaba? Nicosiensis, quam ad epis copum sedis ejusdem, ex hujusmodi nostrse ordinationis beneficio, pertinere perpetuo volumus, pro libito commorari. 1 Archbishopric : — 2. Mavrovouni (St. George). Buildings ruined except the church. Let as a farm. 8. Chordakiotissa (tojc XopSaKiwv), near Sotira, south of Famagusta. A church only exists which is reckoned as an appendix to Hagia Napa. 17. Hagios Kendeas, no monks there. 18. Maloura (Archangelos), near Goshi, a ruin. ig. Hagia Thekla, let as a farm. 23. Hagios Herakleides. In this monastery are preserved the relics of that

Stauropegia. 1. Kykko. 2. Hagia Enklistra at Paphos. 3. Hagia Mone, Metochion of Kykko at Paphos. 4. Piani, Metochion of Kykko at Paphos. 5. Sinte, Metochion of Kykko at Paphos. 6. Hagios Nikolaos Stege at Solea. 7. Kathari at Kyrenia. Paphos. 1. Trooditissa. 2. Stavros of Omodos. 3. Hagii Anargyri of Phini. 4. Pente Litharia. 5. Stavros of Anogyra. 6. Hagios Sabbas. 7. Salamiou. 8. Haginikoloudin. 9. Hagios Georgios Koumanou. 10. Hagios Onesiphoros. 11. Chrysorrhogiatissa. 12. Stavros of Mitha. 13. Zalakia. 14. Chrysolakourna. 15. Hagii Anargyri of Giolo. 16. Hagios Nikolaos Nikoxylites. Kition. 1. Mesapotamos. 2. Hagios Nikolaos of Ergasterion. 3. Hagia Mavra. 4. Archangelos of Monagri. 5. Amasgou. 6. Sphalan- giotissa. 7. Hagios Nikolaos of Akrotiri. 8. Amerou. 9. Stavrovouni. 10. Hagios Menas. 11. Stavros of Kouka. 12. Megas Agros. 13. Iamatike.

Cyprus: Its Ancient Cities, Tombs, and Temples

Cyprus: Its Ancient Cities, Tombs, and Temples

The mass of stones on the ground shows that the
temple had been a magnificent edifice. It probably faced
the sea, from which it was only a thousand yards distant,
and was entirely surrounded by a forest. This temple
was seventy-nine feet in length, and thirty-two in width.
Its columns, in white marble and bluish granite, are
lying scattered in every direction. They are of different
dimensions. The largest measure three feet two inches
in diameter ; the next in size two feet ; and the smallest
sixteen inches. Portions of the latter stand on their
bases. This spot is well worthy of systematic explora-
tion, but that could not be accomplished without ample
funds. I dug along the eastern foundations for several
weeks, and laid bare a part of the pavement, but met
with no sculptured remains, except a few terra-cotta
warriors with helmet and shield, and the fragments of a
very large earthenware jar inscribed in Greek letters
with a dedication to Apollo Hylates. The latter were
found beneath the stone pavement of the temple.
Within the area of the temple I found also several
mutilated Greek inscriptions, on one of which occurs
the name of Ptolemy Philadelphus and Cleopatra.
Near the temple are the ruins of a rectangular building
which may have been the abode of the priests of
Apollo.

At this point the view from the west is imposing
in the extreme. Rising abruptly from the sea is the
promontory, I believe, spoken of by Strabo, from
whence, he says, those who touched the altar of
Apollo with their hands were precipitated into the sea.
What meaning may have been behind this we do not

344 CYPRUS. [Chap. XI

know. Engel (ii. p. 667) thinks it must have been as
an act of atbnement for bloodshed that persons were
hurled from the rock. He points out that the worship

itadi. From temple of Apollo Hylmi

of Apollo here was particularly that of a ” purifying ”
god, and remarks also that Cephalos, who was the first
to leap from the Leucadian rock to purify himself from

the blood of Procris, was connected with the mythology
of Cyprus.

In a ravine south-east of these ruins I came upon a
pit full of broken statues, and in its vicinity a little
mound containing a great mass of hands, feet, and

Chap. XI] TEMPE.E OF APOLLO HVLATES. 345

legs, belonging to the same ; it is probable that these
statues had come from the temple of Apollo. These
fragments were all in calcareous stone, and bore
evidence of having been purposely destroyed. Among
them were two white marble statuettes about two feet
high and a small one of
bronze 7^ inches high,
probably representing
Apollo, of fine Greek
workmanship. On some
bases of statuettes in
calcareous stone found
in the mound mention-
ed before, the name of
Apollo is inscribed in
Cypriote characters.
In another locality,
always in the ravine
above mentioned but
farther west, I dis-
covered some twenty-
five statuettes in cal-
careous stone, repre-
senting a youth seated
after the oriental
fashion, and having a
number of amulets a-
round his neck. On i^,„„ FiKu.c.

the base of some of

them is also inscribed the name of Apollo in Cypriote
characters. I may remark here that statuettes identi-
cal with these have been found everywhere in the
island, at Golgoi, Dali, Amathus, Curium, Carpass,
etc., etc.

The harvest season having commenced, I was obliged
to let my men return to their homes, and give up the

346 CYPRUS. [CHAP. XI.

explorations. I therefore prepared to return to Larnaca.
Instead, however, of taking the regular route to Limas-
sol, I resolved to keep to the coast, and go around the
promontory of Curias. The country from Curium to the
Cape is an open and very fertile plain ; yet on account
of the torrents from the mountains north of Episkopi,
which in winter bring down and cover the fields with
roots, stones, and dead trees,
the riding is rendered difiicult
and slow, and I spent more
than two hours in reaching the
Cape. On the way, I passed
an old Greek church, dedicated
to St, George who has now as
many shrines in Cyprus as
Apollo formerly had temples.
It had some large capitals of
columns taken from Curium,
and some early Christian mor-
tuary cippi. East of this
church, some ten minutes’ ride,
is a little village of about fifty
houses.all stone-built, inhabited
exclusivelyby Christians, called
Acrotiri. Further east of this
village arise the commanding
ruins of a large Byzantine
Greek convent, with a church
in a tolerably good condition, dedicated to Aghios
Nicholas. This edifice, made of square blocks of lime-
stone, is oblong, two stories high, and is erected in the
centre of a square, measuring 385 yards each way, for-
merly surrounded by a thick hedge of box-wood. On
the lintel of a doorway cut in the eastern wall, to the
right of the great entrance, are sculptured five shields,
the centre one having the arms of the Lusignan kings.

A Handbook for Travellers in the Ionian Islands, Greece, Turkey, Asia Minor … (Google Books)

ROUTE 97.

FROM GULNAR. To CYPRUS.

Cyprus is the most easterly island of the Mediterranean, off the coast of Syria. It has been conjectured originally to have been united to the continent, and thence torn by some great convulsion of nature. There are, however, many reasons for thinking otherwise, and for believing it always was an island. It has been said, that its name was derived from the copper-mines, but the reverse is the fact; and it was the metal which derived its appellation from that of the island. In ancient times it was

believed peculiarly the favourite abode of Venus—a fable probably originating in the voluptuousness of the inhabitants. The Greeks first ruled and colonized it, and from them it was taken by the Romans. In the decline of the Roman empire it bebecame independent; and at the period of the crusades, Richard I. of England bestowed the crown on the house of Lusignan, “a rich compensation,’ says Gibbon, “for the loss of Jerusalem.” The island is traversed by two mountain-ranges of some height, from which many streams descend, that once diffused verdure, and added to the beauty of the scenery; but now trickle ineffectively down the old channels, half dried up in summer. All the old fertility, for which the soil was proverbial, has vanished, its population diminished, under the destructive influence of provincial despotism. Yet not even this can wholly obliterate the traces of what has been, or the indications of what might be, were good government ever to become the lot of the people. The admirable situation, and the delicious grapes, still preserve for it a share of its old commerce. The famous wine known in the Levant as the Vino di Commanderia, is the most advantageous branch of trade. It is grown in a district of the same name, and which originally formed part of the commandery of the Templars and of the Knights of Malta; it is situated between Mount Olympus and the towns of Limasol and Paphos. This famous wine is much improved by age. The Greeks have an ancient custom when a child is born of burying large vessels closely stopped and filled with wine, which are only removed out of the ground on the marriage of the same child. This wine is then in perfection, and when it can be purchased, it fetches a high price, and is generally sent to Europe. The leather prepared at Nicolia is better dressed and more brilliant than any Turkey or Morocco leather. The stuffs, half cotton and half silk, manufactured here, are of brilliant and durable colours, which become brighter . wear and bleaching. Cyprus pro

uces madder for dyeing cottons red. Whole fields are covered with coloquintida without culture: opium is cultivated at the foot of Mount Olympus; and Cape Cromachite is covered with soda. The forests afford fine wood for building, and planks. The tar, pitch, and turpentine of Cyprus are much esteemed. A tolerable quantity of wool is sent from Cyprus to France and Italy. The habitations are still surrounded by groves of oranges, lemon, pomegranate, and other fruit-trees, which maintain verdure and coolness; while the gardens are most productive in every species of vegetables, and brilliant with flowers. The various species of corn yield abundant harvests; but the quantity raised is circumscribed within narrow limits, and is insufficient for the supply of the island, even when the crops escape the formidable scourge to which they are liable, viz., the attacks of myriads of grasshoppers. These animals come sometimes in thick clouds, and in a few moments the stalks of the corn are laid down and cut in pieces, the ears devoured, and the crop, destroyed. The mulberry trees also fall a prey to the ravages of the grasshoppers, and all verdure disappears on their approach. Various conjectures have been formed with regard to these swarms of grasshoppers, but it appears pretty well ascertained that they arrive from the continent, supported and impelled by the winds; many are lost on the voyage ; the shores of the island are covered with their dead bodies floating on the waters. There are fewer olive-trees than formerly; though the soil is favourable to them, the culture of them has been neglected. In some parts

of the island are woods of mulberrytrees; and the silk trade was of some importance. The carob, or St. John’s bread-tree, abounds in some districts, and bears fruits which form a particular branch of trade. The pods, whose succulent pulp supplies the place of sugar and honey, are exported to Syria and Egypt, while the fruit called St. John’s bread serves as an article of food. The wood is hard and serviceable. The cotton of Cyprus is the finest in the Levant, and fetches a higher price than any. The quantity exported was, under the Venetian government, 30,000 bales of 300 lbs. each, but is now reduced to 3000. Under the Venetians sugarcanes were extensively grown; but the plantations were destroyed when the Turks took the island, and have never been renewed.

The island of Cyprus is about 70 leagues in length from E. to W., and 30 leagues in its greatest breadth; its circumference is 180 leagues.

The most elevated, and the most remarkable of its mountains is Mount Olympus, now called Trobodos, or Trogodos, to distinguish it from another mountain of the same name in Natolia, and from the still more famous one in Macedon. The ancients called it little Olympus; and on its summit was a temple dedicated to Venus, the entrance to which was prohibited to women. Numbers of Christian convents were afterwards built on the same ground. The monks embellished the slopes of the mountains with gardens and vineyards and rendered it the most delightful abode in the island. The rich Cypriotes used to resort thither in the summer to enjoy the coolness of the groves; but since Cyprus has been in the possession of the Turks, this beautiful district has been laid waste, the monasteries have been demolished, and these cheerful spots have been clothed with the rugged garb of sterility.

The traveller, sailing from Gulnar (Kelenderi) to Cyprus, may land at Tzerina, called by the Italians Cerina, and by the Turks Ghirne. It is a small town with a Venetian fortification, and a bad port on the northern coast of Cyprus; it is reckoned by the Greek sailors to be eighty miles from Kelenderi, but is probably less than sixty English. The town is si

tuated amidst plantations of oranges,

lemons, olives, dates, and other fruittrees; and all the uncultivated parts of the plains around are covered with bay, myrtle, and lentisk. On the west side of the town are extensive quarries, among which are some catacombs, the only remains of the an: cient Ceryneia. The harbour, bad and small as it is, must, upon a coast very deficient in maritime shelter, have always ensured to the position a certain degree of importance. The natural formation of the eastern part of the north side of Cyprus is very singular : it consists of a high rugged ridge of steep rocks, running in a straight line from E. to W., which descend abruptly on the south side into the great plain of Lefkosia, and terminate to the north in a narrow plain bordering the coast. Upon several of the rocky summits of the ridge are castles which seem almost inaccessible. The slope and maritime plain at the foot of the rocks, on the N., possess the finest soil and climate, with a plentiful supply of water.

From Tzerina to Lefkosia is 6 ho.— At the back of Tzerina, the road passes through an opening in the great wall of rock already described, and descends into the great plain of Lefkosia, in the centre of which stands the town of Lefkosia, the capital of the island, called Nicosia by the Italians. It was formerly a beautiful town in appearance, but is now nearly ruined. The fortifications were Venetian ; the houses flat roofed, with trellised windows and light balconies, situated in the midst of

gardens of orange and lemon ; but the streets narrow and dirty, and the habitations of the lower orders miserable. In the town is a large church, where the christian kings were crowned, converted into a mosque, bearing the Greek name of Sta. Sophia, said to have been built by Justinian, but more probably the work of one of the Frank kings of Cyprus. The situation of Nicosia is agreeable, in a fine plain, where streams are abundant, and the soil fertile. From Lefkosia to Larneca is 8 ho., the first half over a plain, the rest over soft rugged limestone hills. The town of Larneca stands at the distance of a mile from the shore, and has a quarter on the sea-side, called ‘AAukaic by the Greeks, and Marina by the Italians. In the intermediate space are many foundations of ancient walls, and other remains, among the gardens and inclosures. The stones are removed for building materials as quickly as they are discovered; but the great extent of these vestiges, and the numerous antiquities which at different times have been found here, seem to leave little doubt that here stood Citium, the most ancient and important city in this part of Cyprus, the birth-place of Zeno the philosopher, and the place where Cymon, the Athenian general, died. The town is very oriental in appearance. The port is the most frequented in the island ; the roadstead is open, but the anchorage is good. The consuls and European merchants have fixed their residence here, and some . degree of activity prevails. The citadel is of a square form, and furnished with artillery, but progressing fast to ruin. With the exception of a few gardens, the environs are arid, the soil poor, and there is a scarcity of water. The plains were once covered with forests of olive-trees; and near the town may be observed immense cisterns, which once preserved the oil they produced. Larneca is a very unhealthy abode; the heat is oppressive, the plains marshy, and fevers are very prevalent and dangerous there. Near the hamlet of Saterno, 3 league from Larneca, is a large saline rock, where the salt is formed ; but it is now half choked up. Famagusta is a long day’s journey in a plain between two promontories; it is built on the ruins of Arsinol, which took its name from the sister of Ptolemy Philadelphus, king of Egypt. Its harbour is safe, but by no means spacious, and is half choked up ; small ships only can enter it, the larger vessels anchor without. The fortifications are the work of Susifhano the Genoese, and of the Venetians; but they have been neglected by the Turks, and are now contemptible defences. Famagusta was defended by Marco Brigadino with Tmuch valour against the Turkish army, commanded by Mustafa, the general of Sultan Selim ; having sustained six assaults, the Venetian army was forced to capitulate on the 1st of August, 1571. The conditions which were agreed upon were honourable to the besieged ; but at the moment when the Venetian general went to Mustafa’s tent to announce His departure and take leave, the latter caused the valiant Brigadino to be seized, and delivered up to the most cruel tortures. He was skinned alive, and then impaled, and his skin, stuffed with straw, was hung to the yard-arm of a galley. The large gulf on which Famagusta stands is formed by Cape St. Andrea, formerly Cape Dimarete, and Cape Greco, anciently Throni, on which Ptolemy places a town of the same name. Limasol, the ancient Nemosia, is now but a miserable city full of ruins and rubbish, and huts of mud, inhabited by Greeks and Turks, of whom the former are most numerous. The best wines are made in its environs.

The harbour is frequented, and com

modious. The town is situated in a large plain 1 mile from the sea, on a mountain stream, over which is an old bridge : a white castle stands on the shore. Of ancient Limasol, which stood near the modern town, not a vestige remains. Its more ancient appellation was Amathus; it was celebrated for its temple of Venus and Adonis. The south promontory of the island, formerly called Agrotiri, is now called Cape Gatti, from the number of cats kept there by the monks to hunt snakes, which infest the island, and are said to have no greater enemies than cats. Baffa, or Papho, replaces Paphos, where Venus landed after her birth. An ancient temple dedicated to her attracted a number of strangers to her worship, and rendered the ancient city the seat of pleasure and delight. The modern town consists of some wretched houses, a shabby castle on the beach, and a few Greek churches and mosques. It is divided into 3 districts; the Metropolis, inhabited by Turks; Ktema, by Greeks; and the Marina, by both. The two former are built on a low rock 4 mile from the sea. Every house has its garden, and masses of rock have been excavated into various forms, and converted into Turkish dwellings, particularly in the environs of the town. The bay of Baffa is large, but the port unsheltered and unsafe. No place perhaps has received more names than Cyprus. It was called Cerastis, or Cerastia, Horn island, from the number of narrow capes by which its coast is surrounded. By the ancient Greeks it was called Kypros, supposed to be derived from the name of the shrub Küpros, with which the island abounds. This shrub is the Heuné, or Hauna of the Arabs, and the Kauna of the Turks, used by them to dye the nails, the palms of their hands, and the soles of their feet, of a durable bright orange colour: a custom prevalent throughout Turkey and the East. Cyprus was also called Macaria, the fortunate island, from the fertility of its soil, its genial climate, and the richness of its productions; Ærosa, or Copper island. Copper and zinc were formerly abundant in the island, but the mines are no longer known. The marble quarries are abandoned ; the tin, iron, and other minerals for which the island was famous, now lie useless in the bowels of the earth. Tradition and abandoned forges can alone assign the places where the gold mines existed. The blue vitriol, still called Cyprus vitriol, is found in mines in the district of Chrusocco. In the rocks near Baffa are fine rock crystals, called Baffa diamonds, and the mountains contain emeralds, amethysts, peridots, opal, and jasper; but they are no longer sought for here. Agriculture is neglected, and the splendour of Cyprus has vanished. Asbestos is still plentiful in the mountain of Acamantis, near Cape Chromachite. Talc, for white-washing houses, is common near Larneca. Yellow ochre, umber, and terra verte abound in the island, and are exported in considerable quantities by the natives. Marine salt was once a source of great revenue, and is still exported; it is formed in the great lake near Salerno. One may travel whole days in Cyprus over deserted and abandoned plains, overrun with brambles and other useless plants. The lands are waste and dried up, commerce has failed, and arts and men decayed ; the population is diminished, the animals and cattle have degenerated, and everything that is mischievous and useless prospers. Snakes, tarantulas, and the galeode of the Levant, a frightful spider, whose venom strikes with death whomsoever it reaches, infest the country. The northern region of Cyprus is

the most hilly and wooded, and the least fertile ; the heat is tempered by the winds from the mountains of Karamania, which preserve the frozen snow on the highest spots during the greater part of the year. The cold is very severe in winter. In the plains of the South, the heat of the sun is excessive ; but it is moderated by the sea breezes. Rain is very rare here in summer, and verdure is banished by the long droughts; irrigation is neglected, and running streams are scarce. Most of the rivers are only torrents formed by the melting snow: some districts are rendered unhealthy by the stagnant waters. Cyprus was consecrated to Venus. This goddess, the mother of the graces, the loves, and the pleasures, was said to have sprung from the froth of the sea near this island, to which she was wasted by the Zephyrs, and received on the sea-shore by the Seasons, the daughters of Jupiter and Themis. She was called by the poets, the Cyprian and the Paphian Queen, because she was worshipped by the whole island, but particularly at Paphos, where 100 altars smoked with male animals offered in sacrifice, and perfumed with the richest odours of Arabian frankincense. In former times the island was divided into nine kingdoms, and successively under the domination of the Egyptians, the Phenicians, the Persians, the Macedonians, the Romans, the Europeans of the West, and the Arabs. The crusades rendered it the appanage of some princes of Europe, who gave it up to the Venetians. It was wrested from them by Sultan Selim in 1570, and since that epoch it has made part of the Ottoman empire. In 1822, 25,000 Greeks were massacred, 74 villages destroyed, together with monasteries and churches ; the women sold as slaves, and the children thrown into

the sea. Mehemet Ali’s troops preserved a portion of the island, and the lives and properties of the Franks. The fevers which prevail in the island are almost always malignant, while those in other parts of the Mediterranean are usually intermittent. The inhabitants are therefore strict in their diet, and consider it fatal to eat meat of any kind in hot weather, unless boiled to a jelly. Fat meat they dare not touch, and they also abstain from eggs, cream, milk, and all sorts of pastry.

A History of Cyprus, Volume 2

A History of Cyprus, Volume 2

Famagusta since 1373. The castle was abandoned in the Venetian period;
but considerable ruins remained down to the beginning of the British
regime.

Nothing seems to remain of the castle which is said to have been built
by the Knights of St John at Episkopi, and was still existing, though used
only as a store, in the sixteenth century. 1 2

The early religious foundations continued for the most part to exist
under the Franks, despite the deprivations which they suffered in favour
of the Latin Church. Of those which have been mentioned, St Nicolas
of the Cats near Akrotiri (Vol. 1, p. 273), the earliest existing buildings
of which date from the thirteenth century, continued to be inhabited
by its Basilian monks and their cats until the Turkish conquest.*

Stavrovouni (Vol. 1, p. 272), possibly after the fall of Antioch in 1268,
or later, after the fall of Acre, 3 lost its original Basilian monks and passed
into the hands of the Benedictine Order.

Tokhni continued to be famous for its relic of the Cross until that
was stolen in 13 18, and after many adventures found its way to its home
1 Lusignan, Chor. f. 7b; Descr. f. 18.

2 The monks were then expelled: Villamont (1588-9), Exc. Cypr. p. 172. Ky-
prianos, however, in 1788, mentions the monastery as still existing (p. 393). The
chapel, at any rate, was not destroyed, and continued to be used occasionally for
services until recently (Hackett, p. 358; Papaioannou, n, p. 15 1).

Greece at the crossroads

From what I know about Greece, it pretty much went from being Turkey’s coloniser (especially in ancient and Byzantine times) to Turkey’s colony (Ottoman Empire). So the degree of influence from each other’s going to be felt anyways. (And that Turkey actually used to be majority Christian and still has a Christian population and a Muslim sect heavily influenced by it.)

Cyprus is literally divided between its Greek and Turkish heritage, both culturally and geopolitically. And quite parsimoniously, Greece was also the real meeting point between East and West whether religiously, politically or geographically (this is also true for Turkey, Albania and Bulgaria). Unsurprisingly and parsimonious this is where not only the Jews went to Europe.

But also where Christianity and Islam spread to varying degrees, resulting in curious syncretic Crypto-Christian Muslim sects. (They’re this common in Turkey and Albania.) The connection’s going to be inevitable as is the Orthodox Church’s influence.

Dog populations

One study reported a genetic signature unique to African dogs though it can be argued that this might be an isolated population at that given other studies suggest that African dogs might have Middle Eastern wolf DNA (gene flow) and others are of partial European descent. It would make sense if/had dogs been introduced to Africa through the Middle East some of those African lineages might owe to being that isolated from others. Practically analogous to what Chinese, Japanese and Koreans are to each other.

(If Ugandan and Namibian dogs have less genetic diversity than their Egyptian counterparts, as Uganda’s relatively closer it should indicate that Ugandan dogs are descended from Egyptian dogs. Egyptian dogs show partial Asian descent, thus indicating divergence from Asian populations.)

If some African dogs do have Middle Eastern wolf DNA, it could not only indicate some sustained interbreeding and actually some communities (especially in Japan) encourage this but also a Middle Eastern origin in general. Which makes sense when it comes to Afro-Asiatic expansions, with their origin in the Levant. (Rather coincidentally North and Northeastern Africa’s home to considerable Muslim and Jewish populations, which also occur in the Middle East proper.)

This might also explain why some dogs have European DNA, part of it owes to immigration whether if it’s Afro-Asiatics (something that’s even pointed out in some documents involving South African dogs) or Europeans. Conversely speaking, a study on domestic cats suggests that there are some cat lineages unique to Africa with a substantial wholly Middle Eastern and Anatolian lineage. There’s even a report of cat bones in Cyprus, dating back 9000 years.

Cyprus’s next to both Greece and Turkey which shouldn’t be geographically surprising by now. Though there’s also report for a separate lineage in Southwest Asia, given a good number of Asian cat breeds are related to Southeast Asian strays it’s parsimonious to assume that cats were introduced from India via spread of Buddhism though that’s ironically declined in India, it practically persists outside of it (Thailand, Sri Lanka, Vietnam).

(Maybe Indonesia, Malaysia and the Philippines also had Buddhist and even Hindu populations, though they still exist in the former.)

I also suspect the contradictions in dog genetic diversity might have more to do with many more Western dog owners being more used to purebreds than they are to stray mongrels. Mongrels and strays often go hand in hand to the point where they can’t live without the other. Mongrels tend to decline whenever strays decline. Though not always exactly the case, mongrels are likelier to occur in European countries where stray dog incidents are commonly reported.

Though there’s also the case of some studies being limited in scope, whether by bias or budget or often both.

Kind of gross in hindsight

I won’t doubt if cat domestication/commensalism came around (for better or worse) with granaries and maybe a little earlier than that especially in Africa (Egypt) and Cyprus. There are still some African communities like Cameroonian Bamilekes/Grassfielders that keep them for the same purpose they tend in ancient times. Now there’s good argument for dogs/wolves becoming commensal too. Albeit scatologically so.

Keep in mind that dogs and wolves both indulge in coprophagia/eating poop and to some extent corpses (parsimoniously same for cats at some point). Historically and even today, some people don’t always have access to better toilets, water, housing and urinals. Just as some people can’t afford or easily find leashes, fences and vets, some can’t find better latrines and more graveyards to dispose something of.

I’ve seen my own dogs eat faeces every now and then as well as footage of dogs eating corpses in India. It would’ve been far worse during the late Neolithic where child and maternal mortality rates would’ve far higher and people couldn’t always find a better place to defecate. Thus attracting wolves that became dogs.

Thus the commensal wolf theory wins out, especially in India where it’s not only hard to find good vets and dogs stray anyways especially in slums, farms, compounds and villages but also where public defecation and dumping corpses in rivers are a big deal there.

China–The Asian Greece

Imprecise in some regards but decent enough to draw analogies to. Both China and Greece strongly influenced their neighbours and those they made trade with albeit to varying degrees. If Japan, Korea, Taiwan and Vietnam are considered to be part of China logically Russia, Bulgaria and Turkey (to some extent) be considered subsets of Greek culture. (Cyprus’s originally part of Greece.)

Especially since Greek orthography influenced Cyrillic, presence of the Eastern Orthodox Church and that Greeks colonised Russia a lot since 6th century BCE and that there were Greeks in medieval Russia. As for Turkey, it’s present to some extent especially in language and religion. Alevi Islam’s believed to have close ties to the Eastern Orthodox Church.

Interestingly Ancient Greek fashions, especially those of women, survived a lot in India though that could be due to prior trade. Greece eventually got conquered by Turkey just as China got conquered by Manchurians. (There’s a reason why Japanese folk clothing has more in common with historical Chinese clothing.)

Again imprecise but the parallels are close enough.

Ottoman Empire Colonies

Africa:

Ethiopia

Eritrea

Egypt

Algeria

Tunisia

Libya

 

Asia and Europe:

Iraq

Syria

Armenia

Lebanon

Israel

Uzbekistan

Bahrain

Qatar

United Arab Emirates

Yemen

Georgia

Kuwait

Azerbaijan

Saudi Arabia

Bulgaria

Greece

Albania

Bosnia

Cyprus

Hungary

Jordan

Kosovo

Ukraine

Montenegro

Serbia

Slovenia

Croatia

Romania

Turkmenistan

 

I could be wrong in here.

British Colonies

Africa:

Nigeria

Ghana

Cameroon

Kenya

Tanzania

Gambia

Egypt

South Africa

Uganda

Botswana

Zambia

Zimbabwe

 

Asia:

Hong Kong (now part of China)

Malaysia

Singapore

 

Europe:

Ireland

Gibraltar (Spain)

Cyprus

 

Americas:

Guyana

Jamaica

Bahamas

Barbados

St Kitts

America

Canada

 

The Pacific:

New Zealand

Australia