Short end of the stick

I actually honestly think shorts aren’t bad in and of themselves, if worn within reason. If worn to do things like playing football, running, hunting and volleyball then that’s reasonable. Like tights, they’re fine when worn under skirts.

They’re also fine for some sports. It’s not necessarily wrong to wear shorts in public. But on the condition of having any practical use for those. Something like running, hunting and soccer/football as doing these with long skirts would be cumbersome.

Those may be the only times shorts are excusable. But that would involve having to think really.

The Christian Observer, Volume 42 (Google Books)

REPLY TO TWO RUBRICAL QUERIES.
For the Christian Observer.

We will reply to two queries propounded to us upon the introductory remarks of our review of Irish Episcopal Charges in our Number for October. We said, “In England most persons stand during the reading of the Gospel; in Ireland sitting is very general. The Reformers, says Bishop Fleetwood, found the custom of standing, and left it as they found it; not thinking it necessary to make a Rubric on the subject.” We are hereupon asked why we are to stand at the Gospel, o our Reformers said nothing about it. The obvious reply is, that what custom had kept up, a rubric was inserted, at the last revision of the Prayer-book, to enjoin. How Bishop Fleetwood came to overlook this Rubric, we cannot tell; but even to this hour some clergymen might be supposed never to have read the Rubrics after the Nicene Creed, (where this stands) as they do not use the formula there prescribed for announcing the Epistle and Gospel. Bishop Fleetwood, in the letter referred to, was remonstrating against the practice of standing at the second lesson, when taken from the Gospels, which a Sacheverellite curate had urged at the church of St. Andrew’s, Holborn, the parish in which the Bishop of Ely’s London residence was situated. The Bishop says that “neither the man nor the gesture itself, considered singly, is worth the taking any pains about; but the spirit of imposing is troublesome and mischievous, and ought to be carefully wo against.” He therefore advises his fellow-parishioners not to follow “new-fangled whimsies” and “oddnesses,” and to remember that “the Rubric is the rule and law both to the governors and the governed.” The Epistles, he said, were as much the word of God, and to be reverenced, as the Gospels. A prudent man, however, he adds, would not offend against a custom which is not evil; he would therefore stand up at the Gospel in the Communion-service, though he would not in the second lesson. But he forgot that besides the custom, othere was a Rubric, which he had just said is “the rule and law.” The other point was, that we said the clergy in Ireland have retained the weekly offertory from pew to pew; but not according to the Rubrical direction, (that is, while the sentences before the prayer for the church militant are being read) but before the sermon; and we are told that this is proper, and that the sentences ought to be used only when there is the administration of the Sacrament; and that these usual collections are not properly the Offertory. Bishop Andrews, we understand, has been quoted in the Times newspaper, to prove that there ought never to be a gathering except when there is “the sacrifice” of the Lord’s Supper. We will not open up a question which has caused much strife to little purpose; but we will quote, from Dean Comber’s Companion to the Temple, a few lines which bear upon the point. The Dean says, (Part iii. sect. 6,) “The first and most natural act of charity, is to relieve the wants of the necessitous with something which we can spare; and this the Apostle adviseth us to do every Lord’s day, 1 Cor. xvi. 1; and by his authority our Church invites us to give alms so often, whether there be a communion or no.” But, adds he, “This apostolical and excellent custom of weekly collections is now generally, to the grief of all good Christians, omitted and wholly laid aside.” He was writing in the days of Charles the Second; so that more than a century and a half ago (if not long before) the custom had ceased in England; but it has been kept up in Ireland ; the difference being perhaps traceable to there being parochial rates for the relief of the poor in England, but not, till lately, in Ireland. The re-introduction of weekly collections in England, is a novelty; and the collecting them after the sermon, with the reading” of the Offertory sentences, would be a novelty in Ireland; and to both cases, therefore, the Archbishop of Canterbury’s oft-quoted prudent suggestion seems to apply; at least in the present unsettled and suspicious state of men’s minds.

We always feel it irksome to consume time upon ritual questions, when the weighty matters of God’s law demand our best energies; but the present course of events seems to make this a part of our duties; and even our Right Reverend Fathers cannot escape from this grievous, and we might say humiliating, burden. It is afflicting, while souls are perishing for lack of knowledge, and there is all the good land of God’s word and promises to be possessed in its length and breadth, that so much time and thought are now-a-days consumed in discussions which bring neither food to the mind nor benefit to the heart. Yet as all things in the Christian church are required to be done “decently and in order;” if men will raise strifes about what is decent and orderly, the discussion cannot always be forgone. May God, in his wisdom and mercy, overrule it for higher purposes.

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ARCHBISHOP BANCROFT ON CLERICAL COSTUME.
To the Editor of the Christian Observer.

IN your Number for November, p. 643, there was a strange extract from some Tractarian writer, who ridicules what he calls the “Orthodox brethren” on account of their “comfortable livings,” “snug private fortunes,” “exemplary dinners,” “roomy chariots with fat wives, fat horses, and fat coachmen;” but especially because “the species delights in the rustle of silk gowns with huge pudding sleeves.” I wonder not that the Tractarians are displeased at the “orthodox brethren,” or, as one of their writers in the Times is pleased to call them, “the high-anddry clergy;” for Tillotsonians and Laudites never coalesced; and recent events at Oxford and elsewhere have not cast oil upon the troubled waters. But as for clerical foppery in costume, it is an old subject of complaint; and far from being a characteristic of the Anglican clergy of any class, in the present day, no body of men probably, in any age, have been less obnoxious to the charge. Such satirical censures are calculated to inflict unmerited obloquy upon the Anglican Church. I will transcribe a passage from a letter of Archbishop Bancroft’s, written in 1610, which will shew what was the state of things in the reign of James the First. “There have been many constitutions formerly made concerning the apparel of ministers, but never was their pride in that respect so great as now it is, from the

Dean to every Curate ; nothing being left that way to distinguish a Bishop from any of them. You shall find Deans usually either in their velvet damask, or satin cas

* We say “reading,” not singing. the clerks do sing the Offertory, so many

Our Gregorian chanters, who, as the Bishop of London intimated, in his Charge, neither sing nor read, will do well to remember that the words in the Rubric of King Edward’s first Prayerbook were, “In the mean time, while

as are disposed shall offer to the poor man’s box, according to his ability and charitable mind ;” but that the word singing was intentionally altered to reading : “Whilst these sentences are ‘in reading.’”

socks, with their silk nether-stocks ; nay some Archdeacons and inferior ministers, having two benefices, are likewise for the most part so attired ; to omit that their wives, in the cost and vanity of their apparel, do exceed as much and more, which is one principal motive why there is such exclamation against double-beneficed men, and such as beside their two benefices have some other preferment ‘sine cura.” What to move your Lordship in this behalf, I well know not, but as any so attired shall come before you, let him know particularly, and in my name, that they do greatly forget themselves in these so chargeable vanities, many of them having more care, to their own scorn, so to garnish themselves and their wives, than to furnish their studies with such books as might enable them the better to discharge their duties, as well for the confirmation of the truth, as for the refuting of all their opposites and adversaries. Assuredly if at our next session your Lordship, and so the rest of my brethren, shall not be able to inform me, that upon this my letter and admonition there is some hope, that these abuses will be redressed, I will be a humble suitor unto his Majesty, that some straight order, by his direction, may be taken in that behalf, for that this so chargeable vanity should not be still continued ; whilst many other men endure great want, it is very intolerable ; seeing that by such their bravery in apparel, they do procure no manner of credit unto themselves, but rather upon my knowledge, great envy and heart-burning against their calling and estates. hese and some other abuses being oft objected unto me, do oftentimes plunge me, as being always ready to cover and excuse our imperfections of the clergy; but I must be forced to leave them, if they will not be content to be advised by me.”

Sumptuary laws are usually the most absurd and impotent of all enactments; and in the present age the dress of the clergy, both private and professional, is for the most part plain and decent; and as for walking the streets in cassocks, and visiting cottages in surplices, as the Tractarians propose, it would not tend either to godliness or decorum.

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REMINISCENCES OF A SERMON OF BISHOP JEBB’S.
To the Editor of the Christian Observer.

I kNow that you are pleased with short letters, and, therefore, I hope by my brevity to render my communication so far acceptable to you. . I have lived long enough to remember the first announcement of the Christian Observer, and I shall never forget the delight with which its early Numbers were read by myself and friends. It has been a valuable guide to me through many a difficulty for forty years, and therefore you will not be surprised that I welcome its monthly appearance as the visit of an old friend. About thirty years ago your publication directed my attention to some Sermons published by Mr. Jebb, afterwards Bishop of Limerick ; and more especially to an Appendix, in which great learning was displayed, and much labour employed, in an endeavour to establish the famous formula of Vincentius as our proper rule of faith. Now it has been interesting to me—and I hope not without its use—on recently referring to the work, to find my pencil remarks still legible, and sufficiently numerous to enable me to call up the impressions made upon me by a most thoughtful consideration of the various arguments brought forward. With respect to the Sermons, I find written on the blank leaf of them this remark, “There is in this volume much Scriptural truth, but the medium through which it is presented to ordinary minds is too much rarified for a distinct vision of it.” Now, Sir, I apprehend that some others as well as myself fancied we then saw far more Scriptural truth in them than we could now find, and that the experience of thirty years has taught us that even grievous errors may be concealed under ambiguous phraseology.

But my object in addressing you has respect rather to the Bishop’s Appendix than to his Sermons. At the time referred to, from the habit of my mind, and probably my Cambridge training, I had a delight in grappling with a difficult question; and “dies noctesque” did I spend in my endeavours to master this. I have had no reason, on the whole, to regret this propensity, though I fear it may have occasionally caused some loss of time. One good effect has been, that I am far more patient under difficulties than I was formerly, provided that they are the difficulties of Scripture, and not of man’s creating. Those connected with a subject brought forward in Mr. Jebb’s Appendix are of the latter description, as are also the greater part of those which have been revived in our Church in the present day; and though “non eadem est aetas, non mens,” I cannot forbear indulging now and then my “ruling passion,” by labouring hard to find the bottom of a subject, if it has one. I cannot say that I have entered fully into all the details of the controversy now pending, though I have read a good deal of what has been written on both sides of the question. My attention has been directed more particularly to some of the master principles at work; and I have thought much on that fundamental one of the whole system, the rule of faith put forth by Vincentius, and so ably, though unsuccessfully according to my judgment, advocated by Mr. Jebb.

But I promised to be brief, and therefore I will at once transcribe the remark which I made upon his Appendix nearly thirty years ago; only premising that the events of the last ten years have quite confirmed me in the opinion then given, and which I had never any reason to distrust before that time. “There is in this Appendix, and in all such systems of divinity, a strain of reasoning which, if not strictly circular, runs rambling round till it arrives at the same point.” I have, Sir, the more confidence in making this statement as my present conviction, and in laying before the public, should you see fit, together with it, my version of this renowned Latin rule of faith, seeing that my conviction is, as I have intimated, confirmed, and that my version is the one sanctioned and acted upon by learned men at Oxford. We are to believe—“quod creditum est”—that which has been believed, and is believed—“ab omnibus.” —by all who think as we do—“semper”—at any time, “ubique”— wherever we can meet with them. Your’s affectionately, though

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BIRD MANURE : ILLUSTRATION OF 2 KINGS VI. 25.
For the Christian Observer.

I HEAR of a wonderful modern discovery, that manure from birds is a powerful stimulant to land; and vessels are mysteriously sent out in ballast under sealed orders to fetch it from some far-away desert island; and the Prime Minister of the country is making experiments with it on his estates; and the scientific farmers sneer at lime, and bones, and stable-litter, and are buying up the wonder-working guano, the vendors of which, (if I may so call them, as the London milk-man called himself a milk-man, though he owned that he gained his living by selling, not milk, but water, his pump being his best milch-cow,) are making their fortunes by adulterating their precious commodity, much faster, I suspect, than their customers will by using it. There is no doubt that bird refuse is a prolific manure; but then as

to this wonderful discovery of this our wonderful age, it is a fragment of ancient agricultural and horticultural knowledge; and is i. alluded to in the account of the famine in Samaria, described 2 Kings vi. 25, when “An ass’s head was sold for fourscore pieces of silver, and the fourth part of a cab of dove’s dung for five pieces of silver.” Dr. A. Clarke says on the passage, “Whether this means literally dove’s dung, or a kind of pulse, has been variously disputed by learned men;” whose opinions, he adds, he had collected, but would not “trouble his reader to wade through,” his own being that “a sort of pulse was meant.” Dr. Shaw says it was “the cicer, or chick-pea.” Josephus says that it was purchased to supply the place of salt; the long-continued want of which is a privation more severe than we who have that article in abundance can realise. Some critics suppose that it was the undigested corn in the crops of the doves, which were able to fly far off to collect grain; or the garbage of the birds when killed for food. These conjectures have been devised in order to escape the literal meaning, on the ground that the refuse of birds is wholly unfit for food; but the very drift of the passage is, that the famished people were constrained to resort to what was not fit, and was most loathsome; and even this revolting substitute was not so horrible as that mentioned immediately afterwards—women devouring their own children. But we need not resort to any but the literal meaning, if only we suppose this guano used for manure, not food. And to this agree the customs of the Orientals to the present hour. Chardin says that the Persians keep vast numbers of doves, more for the manure of the birds than for food; this species of manure being invaluable for their cucumber and melon beds. So also Thevenot says, that at Ispahan “They eat melons almost all the year round, and take much pains in cultivating them ; for which they use a great deal of pigeon’s dung, keeping pigeons

only for that purpose; and that dung is sold by weight. Every time o

they open the earth about the roots, they fill it up with pigeon’s dung, to give it new mourishment. They dig at the roots of the palm-trees, and fill the hole with pigeon’s dung, whereof they have always provision in that country, because in the villages they purposely keep a great many tame pigeons; and I was told by the people, that if they took not that course with the palm trees, they would not bear good fruit.” Morier says, that in the environs of Shiraz pigeon-houses are erected solely for the manure; and in a passage (quoted in the review of his travels in the Christian Observer for 1819), he adds that this is the dearest manure which the Persians use; that they apply it almost entirely for the rearing of melons; that the yearly revenue of a pigeon-house is worth a hundred tomauns; the succulent fruits raised by this manure being essential to the existence of the people during the heats of summer.

Animal manure was much employed in Judaea, so as to give rise to several p. expressions alluded to in the Old Testament; and the virtue of the manure of birds was probably as well known in Samaria as in Persia. The Jews kept vast numbers of pigeons; and Scott the Commentator remarks on Isaiah lx. 8, (“Who are these that fly as a cloud, and as doves to their windows “”) “The church sees immense numbers from every quarter, thronging to her with one consent, as large flights of birds †. the air like a cloud, and as doves hasten to the windows of the dove house.” This plentifulness of these birds must have rendered the cost of them trifling; which shews the leniency of the permitted substitution by the poor of doves and pigeons for more costly sacrifices.

Ch Rist. Observ. App. 5 I

It is against the above solution of 2 Kings vi. 25, that only food is mentioned in the context; but in describing scarcity, an article in common use, and coveted for the raising of food—and food which could be raised even in a city—might naturally be mentioned; and indeed the specification of the price, “a cab for five pieces of silver,” seems to indicate that it was an ordinary article of merchandise; for I take it that the point of the passage is not that the article was sold, but that it was sold at an exorbitant price. But after all, if this solution be not correct, there is nothing incredible in the narrative in the ordinary interpretation, any more than in soldiers eating their shoes, as they have sometimes done, in a besieged city. Only let us not pride ourselves upon our new discoveries, where we are merely following out the experience of ages.

The Women of Turkey and Their Folk-lore, Volume 1 (Google Books)

All these patriarchal customs are, however, in the cities of the iEgean, and in the towns of European Turkey, things of the past. Western education and ideas are, with every succeeding generation, more and more permeating every class, and though a good many of these apparent changes are merely superficial, and present strange and sometimes ridiculous anomalies, unavoidable in a period of transition from Eastern to Western habits and modes of thought, real progress is no doubt being made by this section of the nation. A young wife becomes the mistress of her husband’s house, his parents merely receiving her on her arrival according to the ancient etiquette in matters of marriage, which I shall presently describe, and which is still to a great extent adhered to. She now enjoys the same freedom of action and social status as the European ladies with whom she may be acquainted. All the usual facilities for social intercourse are at her disposal, and she may, if philanthropically disposed, spend some of her leisure time in endeavouring to ameliorate the condition of those of her countrywomen less favoured by fortune.

She has her box at the theatre, and attends the balls given at the casinos of the different nationalities as well as those more exclusively Armenian. I was once, when at Smyrna, invited to a fancy dress ball, given during the Carnival by the members of the Armenian Cercle or Club, where I found myself the only European present. The arrangement of the rooms left nothing to be desired, and the stewards were perfect in their duties. The costumes of the ladies especially were extremely rich, varied, and picturesque, and set off to great advantage the beauty of many of the wearers. Many of them were ancient Oriental dresses of a style no longer worn, and composed of rare silk damask decorated with exquisite old embroidery. Others were of the more conventional type of Floras, “Nights,” and Shepherdesses. Though none of the company had probably ever had a dancing lesson, there was little fault to be found with their performance, and some of the younger ladies, indeed, waltzed most gracefully. Many of the company spoke English, nearly all expressed themselves fluently in French, and I was indebted to them for a very enjoyable evening.

The travelled Armenian lady often returns to her native town imbued with a sense of her own superiority, and sometimes, I must admit, inclined to treat with contempt her less favoured sisters. I was some years ago slightly acquainted with a lady of this description, who posed as a complete Parisienne and femme du monde. One day among the numerous callers, both native and foreign, whom. we met in her drawing-room, was an Armenian lady whose resplendent toilette was completed by a pair of bright blue kid gloves. After some conversation with this lady and her party, the hostess crossed over to where I sat with my friends, saying, as she joined us, “Je viens m’asseoir du cote” de la civilisation ; ces gants bleus la m’ont donne mal au cceur.” On another occasion this very ” civilised ” lady, after deploring the want of literary taste at Smyrna and Bournabat, said, referring to the English Levantine ladies who constitute the principal element of “society” in that suburb, “Really they have no topics of conversation beyond the success of the last boughadha’ and the price of soap!”

The domestic virtues of the average Armenian woman are, however, many. Her house is a model of neatness and cleanliness, and, even if she is sufficiently wealthy to employ several servants, she will often assist in making the many choice delicacies for which the Armenian cuisine is famous, but which I fear that I have not here space to describe. She is a fond and devoted, if not always a judicious, mother, and an affectionate wife ; and, as a rule, the greatest harmony prevails in Armenian households. When, however, family dissensions occur, they are often aggravated by the fact of the absolute indissolubility of the marriage bond, for, though a separation may be effected, neither party is free to contract a fresh union.

As has been already pointed out in the Introduction, two entirely distinct types are to be found among the Armenians—the fair and the dark, or, as the Turks designate them, the “Pure” (Indje) and the “Coarse” (Kalun). It is, no doubt, to this fact that we may attribute the very contradictory estimates formed by different authors of the personal attractions of Armenian women. Dora d’Istria, writing some forty years ago, describes their beauty in glowing terms ;i while Sir Paul Ricaut, though speaking favourably of the appearance of the men, can find nothing to say in favour of that of the other sex.s At the period, however, when this quaintly interesting author recorded his impressions (1679) it was customary for Armenian ladies, even at Smyrna, to live in great seclusion, and when abroad to be veiled and cloaked like Moslem women ;3 and consequently the female specimens of the race with whom he would, under these circumstances, come into contact, would be only women of the lowest class and of the most mixed blood. .. The Armenian ladies of Constantinople enjoy a great reputation for beauty, and those of Smyrna may, I think, be said to be not far behind them in this respect. One of their greatest charms consists

1 The ” great wash” performed every three or four weeks, when the clot hos are bleached with the ley of wood ashes.

1 “La beaut i des Armeniennes quand clle n’est pas defiguree par une embonpoint prGcoce est veritablement remarquable. ….. Leur fraicheur

est merveilleuse, leur taille svelte et fiancee, leurs sourcils quoiqu’ t,pais, parfaitement dessines, &c.”—Les Femmes en Orient.

2 “Their women are commonly ill-shaped, long-nosed, and not one of a thousand so much as tolerably handsome.”—The Present State of the Greek and Armenian Churches, p. 386.

i The Armenian were distinguishable from the Turkish women by the dark colour of their feridgit or cloaks, and by the red shoes which the sumptuary laws of the time obliged them to wear when abroad.

n the languorous expression of their dark, almondshaped eyes. These beauties naturally belong to the “pure” type, and have, as a rule, black hair and eyes; though brown hair and blue eyes are not unfrequently met with, and are distinctive of some families. The complexion of this type is also good, the figure and carriage graceful, and the hands and feet are frequently small and well shaped. A Viennese painter was so struck with the exquisite proportions of the hand and arm of an Armenian lady of my acquaintance that he begged her to sit to him as a model for that part of a picture upon which he was then engaged. This lady belonged to a family famous for the beauty of its female members, among two generations of whom quite half a score of handsome women might be counted, mostly of the brown-haired and blueeyed type, though of pure Armenian blood, and belonging to the Gregorian Church. And the window of a house in the Armenian quarter of Smyrna, where several of these belles were often visible, was named by their admirers “The Seventh Heaven of Mohammed.” A comely specimen of the “coarse ” type may occasionally be met with, but, as a rule, there is not among them, as Sir Paul Ricaut says, “one in a thousand so much as tolerably handsome.”

But, whether “coarse” or “pure,” Armenian women resort more or less to the use of cosmetics, either to enhance their charms, or to conceal their defects. Nor is this practice a result of the emancipation from ancient customs of the daughters of Smyrna and Constantinople. For earlier in the century, when Armenian women still went abroad

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veiled and. cloaked like Moslems, as above described, and were, in their homes, equally secluded from the gaze of strangers, the passion for “getting up,” which appears to be as inherent in the plain little hired drudge as in the elegant kokona, was perhaps more largely indulged in than at the present day, when the practice is being abandoned by educated women. I was greatly amused during some idle summer weeks at Bournabat by witnessing the open-air preparation and subsequent application of the mysterious compound used for the purpose by the gardener’s wife, who lived in an adjoining cottage. The result of her many hours’ pounding, mixing, shaking, and straining was generally made use of on a Sunday or Feast-day, and the effect was truly dazzling. On the opposite side of the lane lived two girls of a rather higher grade, whose daily occupation might be summed up in the words—they “painted their faces, and tired their heads, and looked out of a window;” and the attempts of the gardener’s wife to rival these “young ladies” were highly amusing. The concoction and sale of these “washes” constitute, in the cities of the East, one of the minor domestic industries. It is generally carried ou by elderly women, who are also skilled in the manufacture of rose- and orange-flower-water and of the delicious preserves met with only in the East. On one occasion, when I had expressed a wish for some rose-water, one of these persons was sent for, who brought with her a handkerchief full of fresh roses (the Rosa moscata), and a small still. Setting up the latter in the garden, over an impromptu fireplace of stones, she in a few hours produced, for the modest charge of six piastres, or one shilling, two large bottles of exquisite rose-water.

The native Armenian costume is now, in the cities of the seaboard and the towns of European Turkey, a thing of the past. A few of the elderly women still retain, it is true, as among the Greeks, the oldfashioned head-dress of the taktikios, which consists of a red fez, the full tassel of which is combed and spread all over it, surrounded by a kerchief of darkcoloured muslin, with a painted border and an edge of coloured needle-point lace. The hair, plaited into one tress, is twisted round the taktikios, and secured with a gold or silver pjn.’ A long plain skirt of stuff or silk, and a loose jacket lined with fur in winter, complete the costume, both for outdoor and indoor wear, though a shawl is sometimes added. In adopting Parisian fashions, Armenian women have retained their partiality for the vivid dyes which accorded so well with their ancient style of dress, but which now often asserts itself in combinations of colour most unpleasing to a Western eye; and the outdoor display they make of their superabundant jewellery says more for the security of property than for the taste of the wearer. But this tendency generally, if not always, disappears after a visit to Paris, or some other European capital.

There are, however, very few of the Europeanised Armenians who, in the privacy of their homes, are neat in their attire. All those I have known were in the habit, immediately on their return from a walk or a visit, of exchanging their Parisian finery for a loose skirt and jacket, their high-heeled and manybuttoned boots for slippers (generally down at heel), and their elaborate coiffure for two plaits, hanging loosely over their shoulders. In this guise, too, they sit at their windows, their fair elbows resting on the cushioned sill, chewing gum-mastic, a practice which, though common to all women of the Levant, is more especially characteristic of the Armenians, and in the motions it gives to their jaws, unpleasantly recalls ruminating animals. This bad habit, however, is said to be good for the teeth.

1 Twenty years ago, all the elderly women of Smyrna of every class, whether Armenian, Greek, or Frank, wore this head-dress, and also many middle-aged matrons belonging to the two former races.

The native costumes still worn in Armenia and in the far interior of Asia Minor vary in form, but the garments, worn one over another, of which they consist are all equally brilliant in colour and durable in material. At Van, the women allow their luxuriant black hair to fall loosely over their shoulders, and on their heads they wear a fez of red cloth, round which is folded, turban-fashion, a many-coloured kerchief. The remainder of the costume closely resembles that formerly worn by all Osmanli women, and still retained by them in many parts of the Empire. It consists of the intarie—a long gown of striped cotton, fitting tightly to the figure; the shalvar—full trousers of raspberry-coloured silk, drawn in at the ankles; the shdpo—a long sleeveless jacket reaching to the feet, and open at the sides up to the waist; and, over all, the jupbe—an ample pelisse leaving exposed to view only the front of the shdpo and the cuffs of the intarie, which are shaped en sabot and edged with “needle-lace.” The pattern always found on the shdpo deserves a word as illustrating a survival of the cone-fruit so frequently found on Chaldean monuments. This garment is made of a kind of cashmere of mixed silk and cotton in wide stripes of contrasting colour. On these stripes are printed various running patterns, of which the leading motive is always the cone. This favourite design of Oriental artists is, however, also said to be merely a modification of the figure of a cypress with its crest bent by the wind, that tree being, both in the folk- and culture-lore of most of the nations of Eastern Europe, the type of grace and beauty.

The costume of the women of Kaisariyeh, in Cappadocia, where the Armenians number some 16,000, is composed of very beautiful stuffs, and decorated with embroidery of remarkable delicacy. The headdress is particularly rich. Strings of gold sequins cover the front of the fez and hang over the forehead. From behind the ears are also suspended strings of seed pearls, and the neck and wrists are similarly decorated with ornaments of gold and pearls. The dress now worn at Sivas is said to be identical with that of the women of ancient Persia. Out of doors, however, all the women of the interior conceal the luxury of their costumes under a cloak of plain stuff, similar to that worn by Moslem women, and shroud their heads and faces with a thick veil.

Armenian girls of the poorer classes manifest an •even greater repugnance than Greek girls to employ

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ment outside the sphere of their own homes, and the latter are often employed as servants in Armenian houses, owing to the difficulty of obtaining Armenian domestics. To see the Armenian girls lounging about their doorways one might indeed say that their leading characteristics are apathy and listlessness. Yet, though so much less energetic than their sisters inhabiting the less enervating climate of Armenia, they can hardly, as a class, be stigmatised as indolent. Many little home-industries are pursued, such as the making of the coloured lace called oya or bibil, formerly so much in demand for trimming the native costumes both of Armenian and Turkish ladies, and also embroidery in gold and silks. The taste and aptitude displayed by Armenian girls for the latter pursuit led to the formation of a class of “art needlework” in connection with the Industrial Institution for Girls, founded at Constantinople in 1887 by Mr. Ohannes Nourian, a philanthropic Armenian resident of that city. To the pupils of this establishment, who now number one hundred and twenty, and are presided over by thirty teachers, was entrusted the task of decorating with their needles the State apartments occupied by the Emperor and Empress of Germany during their recent visit to the Sultan’s capital. The Empress’s satisfaction with their handiwork was, it is said, expressed to the Sultan in such glowing terms that His Majesty conferred decorations on the lady directresses of the institution.1 The silk factories of

1 It is a rather curious fact that the conferment of Orders on Women, fhould have been initiated in Turkey.

I

Broussa, as before mentioned, afford employment to a considerable number of women, of whom a certain proportion are Armenians, who are, I am told, greatly valued for their powers of steady work.

In Armenia Proper it would appear that the women are not less industrious than their Christian peasant sisters in other parts of Turkey, and, in this respect at least, they rival the men of their nation, who are indefatigable workers. Besides her household work, and the care of the family and domestic animals, the manufacture of clothing for the family and furniture for the house also devolves upon the Armenian woman. The spindle is to her what knitting is to a German housewife, and, with the help of her daughters, many beautiful tissues are produced on the loom, the surplus of which find their way to the bazaars of the capital. Among these are fine linen and silk gauzes; so-called Turkish towels, and havlus, or bathing gowns of the same material, with fringed and embroidered borders, made chiefly at Trebizond, Erzeroum, and Van; cloth of fine camel’s-hair, and handsome stuffs for covering the seats and cushions of divans. The process of making the felt or Ukke carpets so much used in the country is very simple. On a mat, larger than the carpet and strengthened at the back with stout linen, the dyed wool is arranged according to the pattern intended. On this another layer of more finely carded wool is placed to the depth of about a foot. Several persons then carefully roll up the mat, and the cylinder thus formed is rolled about and pressed with the feet until the wool is reduced to the thickness of half an inch. The upper surface is then carefully clipped in order to accentuate the outline of the pattern.

A distinguishing trait of the Armenian character is their fondness for, and consequent kindness to, animals, which contrasts very favourably with the cruelty displayed by their Greek, and more especially by their Jewish, neighbours towards their dumb fellow-creatures. To kill a cat, a rat, or a bird was formerly considered so grave a crime as to deserve ecclesiastical punishment, and M. Fleurian1 records a case in which a fast of twenty years’ duration was imposed by the priest upon a woman for killing her cat. And though much leniency is not, I believe, shown at the present day to the larger vermin, I well remember the horror and indignation of some Armenian ladies at Smyrna on witnessing the inhuman treatment by a Greek baker of a rat which had been caught in a trap in his shop. In Armenia, as before mentioned, the dogs are housed under the platform of the selamlik, and the beautiful white cats with long silky fur, and tails oddly dyed of a reddish hue with henna, sit on the knees of their masters or purr by their sides on the cushions of the divan. Besides these more common animals there are the tame, or half tame, lemmings, jerboas, and kara guez, or “black-eyes.” The last are pretty little creatures, with soft grey fur. Like the pink-eyed lemmings, they hybernate every year, and are easily domesticated. As for birds, the popular reverence for them is so great that it, to some extent, accounts for the immense numbers to be found in Armenia. Some travellers describe them as literally ” covering the ground;” and their variety appears no less great, for Mr. Calvert, when Consul at Erzeroum, collected as many as one hundred and seventy different species.1 Armenian salutations and greetings partake of a decidedly religious character. The reply to goodmorning and good-evening is invariably, “The blessing of God to you.” On separating in the evening the reply to good-night, “And a good dawning,” extends the salutation to the next day. At Easter, and for forty days afterwards, the greeting is, “Christ is risen from the dead!” and the response, “Blessed be the Resurrection of Christ.” The ordinary form of felicitation on the marriage of a son or daughter, the birth of a child, or any other happy domestic event, is “Light to your eyes!” and the acknowledgment, “May you also enjoy the light.”

1 Ktat present de I’Arme’nie, p. 25.

>>

From the above described contrast between the social life and manners of the two sections of the Armenian nation in Turkey, naturally follows a wide difference in the degree of education to which they have respectively attained. While in point of culture the Armenians of the ^Egean would compare not unfavourably with Europeans, the dwellers in the remote Fatherland have advanced but slowly, and female education especially is in a very backward state. Great efforts are, however, being made to remedy this defect, and various educational associations have been organised, which number among their most active members many ladies belonging to the communities at Smyrna and Constantinople. The “Philomathic Society of Armenian Ladies” have founded at Koum-Kapou, Constantinople, a Training College for native schoolmistresses to be sent to Armenia, Cilicia, and elsewhere; and in this establishment seventy-five have already been trained, and appointed to schools in those districts. The “National Society of Armenian Women” also maintains five girls’ schools in the towns of Moush, Hadjin, Keghi, Seghert, and Alashguerd, at which some six hundred pupils are now being educated. The “United Societies for the Promotion of Education in Armenian Centres ” have also in their list ten girls’ schools, scattered over four different provinces, in which instruction is, according to the returns for 1889, afforded to more than seven hundred girls. All these institutions are maintained by voluntary contributions; for, though the Porte imposes an “Education Tax” on its Christian subjects, Moslem schools alone are benefited thereby. The proportion of girls’ to boys’ schools, however, notwithstanding all the praiseworthy efforts of these various societies, is as yet, as with the Greeks of Turkey, only as one to four.

1 Curzon’s Armenia, p. 154. . .<

The American missions to the Armenians, which have been established for more than half a century at Kharput, Kaisariyeh, Sivas, Van, Erzeroum, Aintab, and some other places, have already done much for the education of the female portion of the nation in these towns. The schools attached to these establishments, and presided over by devoted ladies from the

Far West, are attended not only by the daughters of Protestant converts, but of orthodox Gregorians, some, who come from a considerable distance, being received as boarders. Many parents who would gladly follow their example are, unfortunately, too poor to be able to pay even the very low fees required for board and education. The course of instruction comprises the English, Turkish, and Armenian languages, Scripture lessons, arithmetic, and more advanced subjects for those who wish to be trained as teachers.

Among the Armenians, as formerly among the Greeks, the Turkish language has, in some districts, and notably at Broussa and Kaisariyeh, entirely replaced the mother-tongue, which is there used only in the church liturgies. This fact forcibly illustrates the state of denationalisation into which this nation has in many places sunk during the Ottoman domination. With the re-birth of national sentiment and aspiration, a reaction has, however, naturally set in, and the rising generation now everywhere learns in the national schools the mother-tongue, which will, it is hoped, soon entirely supersede the use of Turkish, save as a foreign language. Good schools both for boys and girls have long been established in the capital and in Smyrna, and for very many years past the teaching of French has in the latter city been obligatory. Some of the wealthier families at Smyrna send their daughters to the establishment of the German Deaconesses, where, besides receiving a sound general education, they add a good knowledge of English, French, and German to the three native languages of Armenian, Turkish, and Greek, which they have orally acquired in childhood. Many girls are also educated at home by European governesses, who find their pupils, as a rule, extremely intelligent and painstaking. While Armenian men have been engaged on translations of such works as Milton’s Paradise Lost and Homer’s Iliad and Odyssey, some of the Armenian women of the Capital and of Smyrna have occupied themselves with rendering into their native language, for the benefit of their less cultured sisters, the more popular works of Victor Hugo, Dumas, Ohnet, and other French authors. A literary Salon, too, has been formed at Constantinople, though whether the “culture ” of its members is, or is not, of the kind satirised by Moliere in Les Precieuses Ridicules and Les Femmes Savantes, I am not in a position to say. Armenian women are also in considerable demand as actresses in Turkish theatres. The plays most in vogue in this country are French operettas, the librettos of which are translated into Turkish, though original comedies are also often placed on the boards. The Sultan employs a company of these women, and himself writes, or rather furnishes, the plots for some of the comedies and burlesques. Armenian literature, the most brilliant period of which was from the fifth to the seventh centuries, long neglected, is at present in a transitional stage, and there is now, I am informed, “more imitation than creation.” The recent revival of education and national sentiment, however, will no doubt be followed by a revival of letters, and of this there are, indeed, already various unmistakable signs. Old traditions are being collected and published; periodicals started, devoted to the national cause; and, as before mentioned, great efforts are being made in the schools to restore the use of the ancient language of Armenia.

I ought not, perhaps, to close this chapter without some remark on the patriotism of the Armenians. For however far from the land of his ancestors a son of Haik may roam, he never forgets its former greatness, nor ceases to long for its deliverance from a foreign yoke. And this sentiment seems to be as strongly developed in the communities which have lived so long in exile that they still retain forms of speech which are obsolete in the Fatherland, as in the emigrant of yesterday. Indeed, the couplet from the ancient folk-song,

Thy native land still bear in mind,
To it be ever true and kind,1

attributed to an old nurse when taking leave of an Armenian princess about to be married to a foreign monarch, seems always to find an echo in the Armenian breast. And from the women no less than from the men of such far-off colonies as those of Batavia and Sourabayia, in Java, as well as from those inhabiting the Turkish cities, come messages of sympathy, accompanied by more substantial assistance, to the Armenian Patriotic Associations lately established in Europe.

The Tailor and Cutter and London Art Journal: An Index of Cutting, Fashion … (Google Books)

THE NEW HUNTING COAT.

This being the hunting season, it is fitting that one of our Plates’sbould show the latest style in Hunting Dress. For many years there was practically little change in the style in which Hunting coats were made. The figure on our third Plate shows a very material change upon what was wont to be regulation style: it represents what is practically a single-breasted Frock, about the same length as the present fashionable Frock.

There are a few special features connected with a Hunting coat to which we will refer. The collar is heavier, as will be seen, and when the coat is buttoned to the top, the collar up, and tab buttoned over, the chest and neck are well protected. The coat is usually lined through with scarlet twill flannel, and the skirt is frequently interlined with thin macintosh, too keep out the w..t. Others provide for this by painting the inside of the skirt with a waterproof solution. In many cases, but not invariably, a saddle-strap, about 8 inches deep and 6 inches wide, is placed at the waist behind, inside across by the hip buttons. This keeps out the cold and the wet when the coat opens behind. Wind cuffs are an almost invariable feature. A macintosh apron, of which we are frequently called upon to cut a pattern, is often worn—this entirely separate from the coat. It is cut something in the form of the

fronts of a pair of trousers, only much larger. It extends from the waist to the middle of thigh, and is fastened there and at the waist behind with straps.

Then Piatt & Co. make a feature of supplying knee waterproof protectors. These extend about 8 inches above the knee and about 4 below. These are a few of the specialities associated with Hunting Dress.

It is unnecessary to add that Hunting coats, when made of the usual scarlet, should be made by a workman accustomed to this class of work, otherwise he may make a mess of it. The scarlet Hunting coat is not now so universal on the field as it was wont to be, many being now made of black Melton.

The Illustrated American, Volume 9 (Google Books)

A MODERN TEA-GOWN.

These spaces are filled in with most charming little Louis Seize ornamental patterns stamped on in perfectly arranged colors; fluttering ribbons tied about tambourines, with floral garlands, etc. The effect is enchanting and novel in the extreme, for which fashionable women should be wonderfully thankful, since the never-silenced cry is invariably for something new. The new muslin is to be made up over glace silk, and if one desires to continue the imitation of last century fashion to its smallest detail, thin gros grain ribbon stamped with designs similar to those on the muslin will be used in trimming.

Tulle and chiffon sewed thick with small pearls is another arrangement designed particularly for debutantes. Older and stouter women may well envy the young girls, for perhaps some partiality in the planning of these new stuffs has been shown by the designers. Only a youthful skin and girlish tenderness of color in eyes, hair, cheeks, and lips, with girlish slenderness of figure, can afford to assume the Trianon muslin and pearled chiffon.

EVENING wraps for wear at the opera balls are, by the smartest women, preferred unlined with fur, as has long been the fashion. A new evening wrap after the following description will give an excellent idea of those Parisian modistes have lately designed.

This cloak was cut on the ordinary circular pattern, and, with only a shaping and fitting at the shoulder, fell straight and long from throat to heel. Canary-colored French cloth, satin finished, was the material, lined inside with paler yellow surah. The soft stuff was gathered about the neck, and from the throat fell a fulled cape of black lace that reached half-way to the waist at back and front. This cape was brocaded close to the cloth by means of a delicate jetting that outlined all the woven designs of the lace. The jetwork then extended from the lace on down the skirt of the cloak to the very foot. It ran in fine skeleton designs and resembled nothing so nearly as frost-work in black. A full ruche of lightly jetted coque feathers stood up about the throat, extended down the fronts, and finished off the cloak’s bottom. Handsome jet ornaments clasped the wrap under the chin.

A second opera cloak was of a thick but light-weight wool goods, tinged a clear cafe ‘au /ait and made on the same pattern as the one above described. Cafe au /ait

[graphic][merged small]
[graphic]
1. Hereafter all correspondent* should be addressed to ” Editor, Correspondence Department. The ILLUSTRATED American, Bible House, Astor Place, New York.”

2. Questions sent by our readers will be answered in the order in which they are received. Owing to the large number of letters which reach us ashing advice, and to the fact that answers to many of the questions involve considerable research, replies can rarely be given in the same week the letter is received Our readers should not enclose stamped envelopes, with requests for private correspondence, as questions can be answered only in these columns.

3. Every letter must be accompanied by an inquiry coupon, which will be found on the third page of cover.

Indian.—I am sorry to say I did not like a single one of the poems. They sound strained and unnatural in the reading, and are painfully often faulty in construction. You had best buy a good book on versification and keep Hood’s ” Rhymester ” on your desk for reference. I don’t say. cease attempting to compose. Often one’s early efforts seem futile and discouraging. I only advise a close study of poetry and strict attention to the laws of verse making.

Atlanta.— Indeed, I do envy you. and trust that the novel experience will prove an entirely delightful one. For the outfit you will need, first of all, warm underclothing, for in Virginia in December the weather is anything but mild, particularly in the huntingfield. I advise you to use high-necked, long-sleeved shirts, with the new undertights now so commonly worn by women. If these are of wool they will not only keep you perfectly warm but are vastly more comfortable than the ordinary undergarments, which, in the hunting costume, would, I fear, sadly hamper your pleasure. Your toilet should be composed on the following lines: First, encase yourself from knees to throat in the aforementioned tights and shirt. Over the shirt slip on a loose one of dark flannel, heavy and rough of material, and made on the pattern of those worn by men ; that is, with turn-over collar, half-bloused body, buttoned up in front, with no attempt at shaping to the figure. If possible, have ihe flannel shirt gathered at the waist into a broad, short belt, on to which you can button the short skirt of your hunting-suit. The hunting-skirt, that must fall just over the tops of your knees or may be as far down” as midway between ankle and knee, should be of heavy tweed, serge, or cheviot. Tweed is best, of course ; corduroy is far too heavy. Hem the skirt not very deeply, kill or box-plait it, and let it button on to the shirt-band, that all its weight may fall on your shoulders and not on your waist. A Norfolk jacket of goods like the skirt should be worn over your shirt. Cut this jacket rather short about the hips. Heavy gray yarn stockings are decidedly the best for the hard wear you will give them. I.aced boots, thick and broad-soled wilh low heels, are decidedly the most comfortable, and over them draw a pair of brown canvas leggings that will reach from your instep far up over your knees. Four-button English walking-gloves you can use when not in the field, where gloves you will find an elegant nuisance. No, most assuredly not. I quite agree with you that women can hunt with the utmost propriety, and by the wearing of a modest, becoming, but sensible hunting-dress, and going into the field with men, they need not in the least shock their own or any one else’s delicate sensibilities. The opinions of your cousin you may quietly set aside as stupid and old-fashioned theories not worth a moment’s consideration.

Narka.—I am distressed to think you never received the package, that I remailed to you the day after its arrival in New York. It was not registered. That was not carelessness on my part, for I had just a bit before sent out a number of small parcels that all reached their proper destinations in good time, and I considered that registration would be but a useless expense. In the past few months there have, however, been perpetrated such bold postal robberies that I should have been more thoughtful. I beg you to forgive me for the mistake, and I here take the opportunity to ask all correspondents who may notice this, to remember and enclose a few extra stamps for registration on any parcels they may send. I know you will be disappointed to learn that corsets cannot be made from measurements. Not long ago

1 had occasion to search for a corset maker who would undertake to make a pair for a friend out of town. Not a single good maker could or would oblige me ; they all insisted that corsets made from proportions of a figure they did not know and from which they had not taken their own measurements would never fit. No amount of coaxing would overcome their objections, so I had to content myself with purchasing an expensive pair of ready-made stays that answered quite as well. Now you can. if you ever go to New Orleans, find there a good corset-maker who will make you as good a pair as can be manufactured, and at far less than the New York makers charge. Better than that, you can send the same amount of money required to pay for an ordered pair, and buy a charming pair of ready-made ones. If you will, write to Altman’s, at the corner of Sixth Avenue and Eighteenth Street, or to Lord & Taylor, at Broadway and Twentieth Street, New Yotk, and enclose ten or eleven dollars and an order for a pair of ” La Classique ” corsets. Give your number, of course, and they will express to you a corset that combines all the highest virtues. The corset-makers here will not touch a commission for less than twelve or fourteen dollars, and I doubt if they can do better by you than the readymade ones I advise. I advise the gown made with a simple straight skirt, plain in front, and plaited in close at back. Around the bottom of the skirt run three narrow, close-set ruffles of the dull silk, which should not only run about the front breadths but extend across the back also. Make the basque close-fiit’ng and long-waisted, with a deep-pointed zone girdle of the silk, to hook up under the arms. Pun the sleeves high on the shoulder, with very deep cuffs of silk to turn back at the wrists, and a high silk collar finishing the threat. It is just now the fashion to affect house-gowns extremely simple in make, and as you are slender, the zone waist will suit you well. Don’t use crepe on the gown ; silk is far more appropriate as a touch of mourning on frocks worn at home. Let me add a hint on my own account. Make the skirt long in the back, for though I count it vulgar to see handsome goods dragged uselessly over the dusty streets as is so common a habit with women this season, yet for the house nothing so adds a touch of grace as an extra length at the back of a skirt. In NewYork, a number of women who have pretty throats wear in the morning, at home, turn-over collars of stiff white linen. In place of a scarf they knot a ribbon bow under the chin, and so lend a crisp brightness to even the soberest costume. The plain linen is, perhaps, in better form than more frou-frou neck-wear of embroidered ruffles. It seems to me you might, if you like, wear these pretty collars with the house-gown just under discussion.

THAYER.—On inquiry, I learn that the professor is a quite reliable and most respectable person. Many I know who have studied his system are loud in its praise; others denounce it as of no avail. I trust it may be of benefit to you, though, for my part. I think it quite within one’s own power to strengthen a weak memory, and have little faith in the efficacy of these prepared systems.

Tumbler Pigeon.—If you will write to Miss Hawkins, who is Secretary of the Ladies’ Berkeley Athletic Club, on West Fortyfourth Street, New York City, she will send you printed pamphlets giving all rules and regulations governing the club. Yes, I think it quite the best institution of the kind in New York.

YsOBSL.—Yours is a very sensible and proper ambition. I see no reason why you should not follow your inclinations, and thereby find quite a sufficiency of pleasant work to fill up all those empty hours. The Church of the Incarnation, on Madison Avenue, corner of Thirty-fifth Street. New York, does, I know, gladly welcome into its corps of clever, energetic parish workers any one who is willing to lend a practical helping hand. It has charge of many prominent missions, and its creche, on the east side of the town, might, 1 think, afford you just the opportunity desired. Dr. Arthur Brooks is rector, and a letter to him would receive prompt attention. A little out of your neighborhood is Calvary Church, on Fourth Avenue, corner of Twenty-first Street. It is another church closely associated with the extensive city mission work, and there you might find just the interest and occupation you need. No, in neither of these churches is there the slightest ritualistic tendency.

Yram.—Well, I have read and reread the letter you enclosed me with closest attention, and, unless I am very blind or dullwitted, I see no hint at what you suspect. It reads to me very like the ordinary letter a nice young man might write to any nice young girl correspondent. It is very evident that he does you the compliment of using his very best scented note-paper, a new pen, his choicest language, and the latest bits of interesting new* that have fallen in his way. Moreover, all this points to the flattering fact that he is earnestly desirous of pleasing and amusing you, and though you may previously have had revelations of a sentimenlal nature made you and your tender suspicions may rest on grounds of which I am ignorant, this letter surely does not presage any early return of the softer emotions. If all his letters are couched in the same terms of friendly affection, then you may rest quite easy. He evidently does not meditate any early confession of love. By all means, answer his neat missives, and if he has done nothing more than send you half a dozen such nice letters he has been guilty of no great crime, and you would be very wrong indeed to refuse to answer them. After all, do you know, it seems to me that your mother should be the one to clear up these lingering doubts in your mind? In future you had best lay these matters before her and ask her advice, as a third person and a stranger is S’ arcely fitted for such a duty.

X. O. Dus.—It is just as you please- You may address the envelope ”To Mr. J. Brown,” or write on it, “For Mrs. J. Brown.” It all depends on your own inclinations and convenience whether you will write ” City,” or the name of your native town or its initials, at the bottom of your envelope. “City ” is a rather more popular method. No, ” Town ” is very bad form indeed, an absurd straining after originality, that means nothing.

Shumway.—You’ve made a mistake in using so much of the shoe-polish, for the more frequently you apply it the more apt is the leather to show a need for it. Suppose, on the new shoes, you don’t use any of the prepared polish, but in a little jar mix together equal quantities of vaseline and good black ink. The result of the mixture should be a semi-liquid, coal-black paste. Apply this with a bit of sponge once a week, and I think you will find your shoes are kept in better condition than ever before. Yes, 1 understand your trouble with the De Guiche varnish ; it is excellent, but so very inconveniently put up. I always empty a new bottle of the varnish into a small glass jar with a screw-top, and apply the cream with a fine camel’s-hair brush. Immediately I have finished painting the patent leather vamps and tips of my boots I screw on the jar-top, and wash all the varnish off the little brush. I think your trouble must be, that you use too much of the cream. It is better to use too little than to lay it on in great sticky masses.

Cat-sup.—Certainly, your mother’s ideas were all very clever, and it seems to me from her excellent suggestions alone you should be able to get together a splendid lot of hand-made gifts against Christmas. However, since you say so many sweet things of my abilities, I must not fail to offer at least one or two serviceable hints. Why not use up some of the silk scraps you surely must have left over from the pin-cushions and head-rests, in making one or two of the new paper-weights? These are nothing more than little bags filled with sand, and slipped into silk casings. One end of the casing is gathered into a bunch tied about with a bit of narrow ribbon in imitation of an ordinary money-bag. Such a bag, as big as one’s fist and encased in dark-blue silk, has marked on it in gilt “$50.00”; brown-silk bags have ciphers and figures in yellow marked on them, and some can be cleverly ornamented with a neatly done silver dollar in silver paint, or copper cents firmly pasted on. For some half-invalid friend you might work a couple of the pretty hot-roll napkins. These are no more than ordinary big, white, smooth damask napkins, the four corners of which are creased into the centre, and stamped with the words. “Hot Rolls,” in two corners, and with ears of wheat and tiny sickles in the other two ends. With yellow floss the words are easily outlined, and in Kensington stitch the sickle and wheatears may be prettily filled in. I don’t think a napkin, with silk for working included, can cost more than forty or fifty cents, and as they are to be bought already stamped, it takes very little time to put in the silk.

F. S.—The rule is, that on rising to leave you shake hands with your hostess and those of her friends or household that may be receiving with her; to the remainder of the company you merely bow, and bid them good afternoon. ‘Twould be not only very tedious hut unnecessary to take formal adieu of every individual with whom you might possibly have exchanged a word. Afternoon tea is not, you see, meant for formalities, and after greeting and bidding adieu to the hostess, one is entitled to slip in or out without great stir and hand-shaking.

Lady Slipper —Do very much as you please. The excellent tan gloves are now worn as much as ever with gowns of every color, and in the morning, afternoon, and evening. The very latest idea, of course, is the use of white gloves for morning and afternoon calling. These are of soft, white dressed kid, with five buttons, and stitched with black. The very smartest women to some extent follow the fashion of using tinted gloves with evening and dinner gowns. Pale rose, blue, lemon yellow, and green, with light gray, tan. and white, are the most appropriate. The short white calling gloves cost from $1.85 to **2 per pair. The long evening gants de Suede run all the way from $2.75 to $5 and $7 per pair.

Madam B —Not that I ever heard of. White, according to the time-honored custom and prejudice, is worn only at the first bridal, and widows about to remarry wear some soberly colored becoming gown, minus the veil and orange-blossoms. Now, although

there is no law obligating women at their second wedding to resign the lily-white costume. I would most earnestly advise you not to violate the rule and wear while again in defiance of the custom. If you do pretend to initiate such a reform for widows you will be the subject of much cruel criticism among your friends and, if you possess any, among your enemies. Be sure they will not hesitate to speak sarcastically of you. Were you younger a simple white gown might be permissible, but, as you frankly confess to gray hair and a few wrinkles, let me assure you nothing could be in falser taste than the snowy toilet, no matter how flattering are the assurances of your future husband. A handsome silk is what you should wear. It can be of any color you like, and, since you ask my advice. I will give you my opinion as to its color, texture, and pattern. Have the skirt of heaviest Lincoln green or clear gray bengaline. If green is your choice, have the skirt made absolutely plain in front, and at the back sufficiently long to lie out on the floor in a graceful demi-train. At the foot of the skirt let a band of sable three inches wide, or a band of silk feather trimming three inches wide, run about the back and front. Fur is preferable to the feathers. The waist must be made in the form of a Louis Seize coat, with tails long, full, and falling at back and sides at least three inches below the knee. In front, over the bust, it should turn back in revers from a.vest of palest rose-colored chiffon, over which should be looped a full jabot of delicate creamtinted guipure lace. The coat inside may be lined with palest rose silk, and at the cuffs of the full wrinkled bengaline sleeves a touch of lace and chiffon can appear. A high collar of bengaline, edged with fur and lined inside with rose silk over which lace is plaited, finishes off the coat. A bonnet of jet and guipure lace, with green velvet strings to tie under the chin, can be worn with this gown. In case you prefer gray, you can copy this gown in every particular, except that silver fox fur takes the place of sable in trimming, and perhaps dull old blue, or electric blue chiffon with the cream lace may be more becoming than rose-color. I am almost tempted to decline answering your second question. However, my advice would be, that you have the ceremony performed in your father’s house in the presence of relatives only. Wear such a gown as I have described, with your bonnet, receive the good wishes of your family, break bread, or, more literally speaking, cut a bridal cake for them, assume your wraps, and drive immediately to your husband’s home. Your announcement cards only need then to be issued, and on the ‘* at home ” cards enclosed, have engraved the date on which you will be ready to receive your friends.

THE MART AND EXCHANGE.

1. Letters to Mart and Exchange must be marked “Mart and Exchange” in the left-hand top corner of the envelope, and addressed, ” The Illustrated American, Bible House. New York.”

2. Append initials or ” noms de plume” to all communications for this column. Private addresses will be withheld at the office of The Illustrated American, through which all correspondence should puss, in order to insure the good faith of those making use of the department.

3. No letters will be forwarded unless accompanied by stamps.

4. Every letter must be accompanied by an inquiry coupon, which will be found on the third page of cover.

WANTED TO EXCHANGE.

Kodak No. I.—A solid gold watch, valued when new at $200, and a Smith & Wesson revolver valued at $13, for a Victor light roadster, or other light machine.—Owendale.

Magazine.—Three bound volumes of Golden Days, two bound volumes of St. Nicholas, four bound volumes of The Youth’s Companion, for bound volumes of The Illustrated American, if they are in best condition.—Saginaw E. S.

Piano.—A more than ordinarily fine Weber square piano offered for sale at $200, or will exchange for an upright of different make. Lack of space in a new house is the only cause for offering this exchange.—L. H. P.

Books.—Harper s Monthly, beginning with January, 1864, to January, 1888—twenty-four years, complete. All in first-class condition. Offered in exchange for the Century Dictionary.— Bubilum.

WANTED TO SELL.

Dress Uniform,—Consisting of coat, helmet, shoulder-knots, and dress-sword belt. These articles have been worn but once, are therefore nearly new. and are suited for a line officer of infantry. U. S. A. Coat is of best broadcloth, and cost—net—$12.75. Sword-belt. $6; shoulder-knots, $6; helmet. $3—total, $27.75. Will lake $15. Size of helmet, 7i.—Dress Uniform.

Demorests’ Monthly Magazine, Volume 14 (Again)

Mme. Demorest’s Portfoliº
ºf Fashions.
This popular periodical for sug
gestion and reference is issued on
or about the 1st of March for the
Spring and Summer of 1878, and
strongly recommended to dress
makers and ladies generally,
is containing an inexhaustible
supply of ideas for the making
and remodeling of dresses and
lomain of the family wardrobe.
Models being represented through
his medium enlarged in size, with
double views wherever necessary,
and every detail faithfully and
ºccurately represented, there is
ºtheslightest difficulty in decid
ing upon styles suitable for differ.
ent purposes, while it also enables
adies to judge by comparison.
which will suit old designs they
intend to make over, as well as the
ºw materials they have to make
up.
A systematic reference to the
“Portfolio,” which only costs fif
ºn cents, saves dollars, which
night otherwise be expended in
The purchase of unsuitable pat
Terns, besides furnishing sugges
ions which can be multiplied into
ºn almost infinite variety of useful
styles in dress and trimming.
Orders must be sent early so as
to be filled promptly, as the de
mand increases enormously with
ºvery fresh issue.
– – — – — – –
–~~~ —
and elevated taste at home.
arments throughout the entire

—> -T->{‘sº
– Y- º
AL Q:§§[AUiº
2 sº
— –

“What tº Wear,” for the
Spring of 1878.
|
OUR “What to Wear” is now so
well known, that we need do little
more than call the attention of our
readers to the fact of its appear
ance. Its practical use has made
its one hundred thousand subscri
bers its one hundred thousand
friends, and not one of them but
will bear witness of its value as an
ever-welcome guide in the thou
sand details of selecting, buying,
making, and performing various
other needful offices, which fall to
the share of housekeeper, wife,
and mother. –
What to wear, what to get, how
to make it, and what to do with
the materials on hand, are perpet
ually recurring questions in the
household, and these the “What to
Wear” of Mme. Demogest seeks to
answer. The cost is so trifling,
that it is not missed ; while the
service it performs is never end
ing. Every merchant, milliner,
dressmaker, and lady of taste,
wants this book of instruction on
dress in all its departments.
——-
Review ºf Fashions.
THE fashions of the past season
have been remarkable for beauty,
variety, and picturesque effect.
There is now almost nothing that
is arbitrary about fashions in dress.
A lady can wear any material, or
any combination of materials, pro
vided it is in good taste, and
– º –
ANES g|EºNgº Nº.
SPECIALITE OF FASHIONS.
We invite the attention of ladies particularly to the original and special character of the Designs and Styles in Dress furnished in this Magazine. In this department it has always been acknowledged unrivaled. Unlike other Magazines, it does not merely copy. It obtains the fullest intelli. gence from advanced sources abroad, and unites to these high artistic ability, and a thorough knowledge of what is required by our more refined Besides, its instructions are not confined to mere descriptions of elaborate and special toilets, but embrace important information for dealers, and valuable hints to mothers, dressmakers, and ladies generally, who wish to preserve economy in their cardrobes, dress becomingly, and keep themselves informed of the changes in the Fashions and the specialties required in the eatercise of good taste.
adapted to her purpose. The old
notion that silken fabrics alone
were suitable for dressy wear has
been quite exploded by actual ex
periment. Softwool holds the light
and shade, and forms itself into
becoming drapery much better
than silk, and is therefore more
graceful and more becoming, while
it can be made as costly as need
be in costumes, by associating it
with rich figured silk, or emboss
ed velvet, or both, and adding
fringes and trimmings ad libitum.
Many ladies have, however,
taken advantage of this diversity
in fashion to arrange very inex
pensive, yet very stylish costumes,
in ivory shades—pale blue, pink,
and rose of fine woolen cashmere,
debege, or English barege, associ
ated with folds of soft silk, damas
sée, or embossed velvet, or both.
Cashmeres and debeges in light colors are particularly affected
for dressy in-door wear, afternoon
teas, or lunches; and are always cut
in the princess style, so that they
are saved from the appearance of
a wrapper, only by the cut of the
neck and the arrangement of the
trimming. –
Cascades of lace or fringe with
ribbon bows are fashionable forms
of decoration, extending entirely
down the front and back, when
the skirt is cut whole, but usually
there is a plaited train inserted at
the back, and in this case the cen
tral trimming stops at that point,
while, perhaps, the front will be
arranged as a basque, with a
deep square vest, and the lower part laid in side plaits or arranged
in bouilloneós, divided with cords
or pipings, or gatherings of narrow
lace.
CENTENNIAL A WA R D OVER A LL COMPETITORS.
The great merit of this variety of fabric is in the fact that styles
can be adapted to many degrees
of fortune. The richer combina
tions, too, have their own advan
tages. Some of the most beautiful
and expensive-looking toilets of
the present season have been com
posed of rich dresses laid away, and now brought out to be cut over and combined with new bro.
caded silk, striped satin, or other
of the rich figured fabrics in
Vogue.
It is not at all desirable that every
one should be confined to economy,
or the use of cheap materials. The
development of art, and all the
higher industries, depends on the
ability of the rich to pay their
cost. In olden times, the Church
was the patron of skillful industry.
The first attempt made to engrave
precious stones was for the deco
ration of the robes of the high
priest, and the whole art of em
broidery and the working of lace
had its foundation in the enrich
ing of priestly vestments and altar
ornamentation.
In Protestant countries, the
Church has no longer any oppor
tunity for display of this kind, and
the encouragement of industrial
arts has therefore fallen directly
into the hands of those who have abundant means to gratify their
taste and love of the beautiful.
It is an evidence of progress,
when the rich are willing to spend
their money in the finest results
of hand labor and artistic skill,
instead of in that which repre
sents mere wealth in bulk. The
richly engraved gems, therefore,
which are now so fashionable,
the exquisite blending of colors,



º
l54 LIHEMCOFESTY’S MONTHLY MAG-AZINE. IMarch,
in silk and chenille embroideries,
the introduction of fine embroi
dery in colors, into delicate lace,
are all indicative of progress in
civilization, and that growth in
art which is reflected in the
beautiful interiors of many dwell.
ings, and in the wonderful skill
bestowed upon the cutting of
modern intaglios, the enameling,
the painting of jewelry, and other
ways in which exquisite handi
work finds occupation and recom
pense.
It is rather early to speak of
spring styles, but not too early
for those who live in a warmer
climate, and who find themselves
during the latter part of February,
or early in March, surrounded by
the growing grass and the bud
ding trees. For the benefit of these,
we will mention two new styles
of costume, both of which are
suitable for spring materials.
One consists of a trimmed or
double skirt, and plaited yoked
waist, belted in. The other is a
Princess, with a small demi-train,
accompanied by a somewhat long
and close-cut jacket. The first of
these is best composed of cashmere
or plain wool bege, trimmed with
silk. The second looks extremely
well in the new mottled or fine
diagonal all-wool serges, also trim
med with silk, in the darker shade
of the color. Fringes, or other
hanging trimmings, with the ex
ception of loops of ribbon, are no
longer used for such dresses.
They are strict combinations of
silk and wool, with trimming
very often consisting of numerous
pipings of the silk, with loops
of silk or ribbon hanging between,
or outlining the bodice or basque.
Flounces are used upon the skirt,
gathered or plaited as preferred ;
or the front, to the knee, may con
sist of a side-plaited tablier, the
back being finished with narrow
ruffles knife-plaited, and put on
with a heading.
A very pretty dress of this kind,
for business purposes, is made of
brown mottled serge, cut strictly
walking length, and accompanied
by a jacket, which is cut away
slightly from the front so as to
show the pretty basque trimming.
This is an excellent model for a
shopping or a business dress.
For the piqués and cambrics,
which begin to make their appear
ance, the plaited yoke basque and
Princess styles are the most suit
able, and as these are likely to
continue in vogue all summer,
there need be no difficulty in
making up summer wardrobes in
advance of the regular season.
Models for the Month.
AMONG the recent designs which
will be likely to hold a permanent
place, so long as the present re
stricted styles of dress shall con
tinue, is the polonaise, which we
illustrate under the name of the
“Seraphine’—2466. It is a very
graceful and well-fitting model,
adapted to bourette, the richer
brocades, or equally for the fig
ured basket-cloth, the new Jas
pers, or the pretty mottled serges
and wool debege, which are al
ways among the standard spring
fabrics. It may be trimmed with
velvet and silk, or with silk alone,
or with satin, according to the
fabric of which it is composed. It
requires less than eight yards of
material, twenty-four inches wide,
exclusive of the trimmings, and
may therefore be made up as in
expensively as one could desire.
The overskirt known as the
“Lisetta”—1211—is a charming
design, very simple yet very dis
tinguished, and extremely well
adapted to plain rich silk, or soft
woolen materials, trimmed with
velvet and embroidered galloons.
The revers at the side are fasteri
ed back with simulated button
holes, made with silk piping upon
satin or velvet, and the buttons
are of the new onyx, with metal
rims, which show to so much ad vantage upon the rich dark shades
of silk or woolen fabric. Six
yards of material, twenty-four
inches wide, will make an over
skirt of this description entirely
of the same fabric; but one yard
and an eighth would be necessary
for the revers, if it is required of
a different fabric. It may be re
marked, however, that the revers
can be omitted altogether if de
sired. –
A suitable basque for spring
woolen materials, particularly for
mottled serge, debege, and the
like, is the “Cuirass” — 2637.
This is plain, but well fitting,
with upright … seams and collar
composed of plaitings of silk. In
stead of plaitings these may be
outlined in flat bands, or pipings,
if desired; or the ruffles may be
turned the other way and made
upright. Detail of this kind is
always a matter of taste, and may
be arranged to suit individual
preference.
We give three out-door gar
ments, two of which are adapted
to spring or suit materials. The
“Garde-Française” coat—1030–
is the most dressy of these, and
particularly suitable for those who
can indulge in the variety in cos
tumes, or are not beyond the age
for a little coquetry. It is par
ticularly adapted for a dark shade
of bourette cloth, with faille trim
ming and vest, and frosted gilt
buttons. It will be observed, that
the buttons upon the vest and
coat are small, and that the style
depends for its somewhat striking
effect altogether upon the cut and
finish. The material, therefore,
of the coat should be handsome ;
the ground color dark ; the linings
of the fronts, at least, all silk;
the same as the facing for the col
lar, cuffs, pockets, and lappels. It
should be worn with a skirt, trim
med in front very high, and the
back somewhat like that of the
“Seraphine’’ polonaise. The
amount of material required is
very small—four yards and a half
for the entire garment, or three
and a quarter for the jacket, and
one yard and a quarter for the
vest, facing, etc.
The “Geraldine ” — 1026 — is
simpler in its effect, but very
stylish. The buttoning of the side
forms upon the back outlines the
figure very gracefully, while the
vest, in front, may be omitted,
and the revers retained at pleas
ure.
The “Ottilie’’ Paletot—1031–
may be used as a design for an in
dependent garment, or as an ac
companiment to a suit in spring
materials. Its style particularly
adapts it to traveling dresses and
costumes intended for service.
The finishing should be a binding
of silk, or galloon, and buttons of
stained vegetable ivory, or smoked
mother-of-pearl.
• O e
Hunting Costumes.
Now that the English hunt is
being naturalized in America,
hunting costumes will become
matters of general interest to ladies
who ride on horseback, as well as
those who take part in the sport.
The usual hunting-dress for
English ladies is a habit composed
of the usual long, plain skirt and
basque, made of very dark navy
blue, or hunting-green cloth, faced
with light-blue or with green silk
of the same shade as the green of
the cloth. The buttons are small,
and usually of frosted gilt. A
small standing collar incloses one
of linen, and both are fastened by
a little gold pin, from which de
pend the square ends of a white
lace tie.
The hat is high, and trimmed
with a gauze veil, and an Ulster
with “Carrick “cape is strapped
to the saddle to be used as a wrap,
when riding to cover, which is
always done in an open dog-cart.
—e-e-e—
Niceties of Fashion.
A VERY graceful and pretty
addition to winter toilet is the
quilted cape of pink, scarlet, blue,
or lavender silk bound with nar
row white fur or with swans
down, and intended to take the
place of what are called break
fast-shawls.
To these, as to health, there is
no real objection, for dining-rooms
are often chilly, but to the swans
down-lined peignoirs now being
introduced, and of which the entire
waist is filled with the down, there
is a very decided one. They keep
the chest and lungs even of a
delicate and chilly person entirely
too warm, causing a certain amount
of weakening perspiration about
the back and breast, which, when
another garment, even quite warm,
is substituted for the peignoir,
results inevitably in giving cold.
It is by precautions against any
chill in the atmosphere so extreme
as these that robust persons be
come delicate ones. The peignoirs
are handsome in themselves, being
of a light kind of silk resembling
Japanese and lined with light
yellow or cream-colored Florentine
silk. The sleeves at the wrists
and the neck are bound with
Swans-down.
The profuse use of swans-down
as trimming for many light ar
ticles, such as in London are called
boudoir-slips, and of which the
form is very varied—some being
short, some long—is not open to
the objection of being too warm,
though it is to that of giving bulk
to a figure however light. The
very becoming effect of the swans
down against the skin is an offset
to this, and it is disregarded for
the sake of the complexion.
A boudoir-slip of rose-colored
taffetas has a border of swans-down
and is lined and laid back with
“baby-blue.” Below the swans
down on the skirt is fluted muslin
making the garment reach to the
floor, while the still deeper under
skirt of white muslin protects the
down and flutings. The slip is
of the Watteau shape, and the
front being open exposes a tablier
of white quilted silk which is set
over the muslin skirt, and to which
the down on the slip makes a
border. Pink shoes, high heeled
with silver and with a border of
down accompany this toilette.
LIN EN AND SMYRNA. LACE COLLAR.
PLAIN LINEN
tround point Fichtſ
COLLAR.
CUFE”.
MECHLIN LACE COLLAR.
JAPANESE EMBROID- – –
ERED CUFF. JAPANESE EMBROIDERED COLLAR.
POINT DE VENISE CUFF.
º
– º
POINT DE VENISE COLLAR.
º
:
DEMO Er. EST’S MONTHLY MLA G-AZINE.
Opera Caps.
AN opera cap is an innovation.
Indeed, to call it a cap, from which
appellation it might be argued that
it resembles what we have been in
the habit of calling a cap, is ab
surd. For what resemblance does
a somewhat large bow of gauze or
tulle, much puffed out, to be sure,
and flanked by a jeweled ornament
and a feather—marabout or ostrich
powdered with gold—bear to a cap?
Yet this puff, this cloud, held by
a jewel and winged by a feather,
looking much as though a beauti
ful butterfly had somehow found
its way to a tiny bank of snow,
is, forsooth, a cap
Your opera cap must suit your
toilette. It may be of blue, yel
low, rose-colored, or white gauze,
and the hue of your feather suit
ing. Your jewel may be any or
nament you fancy, if of proper
shape, and the ensemble of gauze,
feather, and jewel constitutes the
cap. Resting among the myriad
finger-puffs and curls this airy
structure is exquisitely becoming,
there being nothing serious or cap
like about it. It is, in point of
fact, the travestie of a cap.
One of the ladies accompanying
the Duchess of Magenta to the
representation of “Ernani,” wore
an opera cap which consisted of a
single puff of gauze fastened by a
jeweled butterfly and winged with
marabout.
———
Embroidered Fichus.
VERY new fichus are mere strips of white gauze, beautifully em
broidered in variegated colors, out
lined to the shape of the neck, the
ends descending upon the breast,
and bordered with a double row of
fine old lace.
Another pretty little decoration
for the neck consists simply of a
handkerchief of very sheer and
delicate linen cambric, shaped and
doubled, and edged with Valen
ciennes or duchesse lace. This
handkerchief is brought close up
upon the neck, fastened up against
the throat with a gold pin, and the
two ends fastened upon the breast
with a second pin, instead of hang
ing loose.

Where to Buy.
OUR readers who desire to pur
chase patterns near by will please
refer to our revised list of Dem
orest’s 1500 Pattern Agencies
printed on the back of the full size
Pattern sheet in the present num
ber. Call for catalogue.
ºlº.º.º.º.º.º.º.o.º.º.
|
Trimmings.
OF frillings for the spring trade
the only noticeable novelties are
those of J. & J. Cash; these em
brace a large variety of new and
tasteful patterns, ranging from
the plain edge to twelve differ
ent designs in lace edges which are firmly woven into the fabric.
The “Wild-flowers” pattern has
in addition to the pretty lace
edge, from two to five stripes
|
clothing, and make also dainty
rufflings for pillowcases, or shams,
or false sheets ; while the colored
frillings will be found most suita
ble to use on children’s as well as
ladies’ percale, cambric, or piqué
dresses, either matching or con
trasting with the goods. The col
ors are recommended to wash and
mends them to additional favor.
The neatness and compactness
with which they are put up for
sale renders them especially at
running across it, not unlike the
tape-bordered handkerchiefs; the
“American stripe” is like the
latter, except that the edge is plain
selvedge. The “Telegraph” pat
tern has two stripes of dotted
lines and plain edge, while the
“Coventry,” “Britannia,” “Broad.
tractive, and we predict for them
a large demand. They range in
width from three-eighths of an
inch up to three inches in the
white, both plain and lace-finish
ed; and from seven-eighths of an inch to three inches in colors.
These latter may be gathered or
way,” and “Victoria ” brands put on plain, the white margin
maintain their high standard of ex forming a facing.
º
º
ºuſ
cellence. As colors are coming so
strongly into vogue as trimming for
ladies’ and children’s white cloth
ing, the newest designs of Cash fril
lings have colored patterns woven
into the fabric, and these embrace
some eight or ten different styles of
figure; some are cardinal, others
blue and cardinal, or blue and yel
low, pink, sky blue, navy blue,
brown and yellow; these colors are
combined to produce the pattern,
or each color used separately pre
sents meat designs of Grecian and
Arabesque effects. As each edge
is completely finished with a strong
selvedge, and a strong drawing
string is woven through the upper
edge, these frillings, both in white
and colors, are most desirable for
trimming ladies’ and children’s

N
T
Ladies’ Street Carments.
Fig. 1–The “Garde-Française”
coat–No. 1030—made in bronze.
brown bourette woolen goods, with
velvet trimmings to match a cos
tume in the same goods. Price of
pattern, twenty-five cents each
size.
Fig. 2. —A back view of the
“Garde-Française” coat, made in
the same goods as on Fig. 1. For
price of pattern see description on
Fig. 1.
FIG. 3.-The “Ottilie” paletot–
No. 1031—made in black armure
silk, trimmed with engraved pearl
buttons and ostrich feather trim
ming. The illustration of the back
is given elsewhere. Price of pat
term, thirty cents each size.
wear without fading, which com- |
Greek Circlets.
THE most beautiful ornament
for the hair which has appeared
this season, both here and abroad, is the Greek band or circlet.
The most superb of these triple
bands are of gold, set with dia.
monds, rubies, or pearls. An ex
quisitely beautiful set has stars of
turquoise; another, stars of garnet.
But, apart from those which are
jewels, the circlets are worn in
the shape of velvet bands, either black, cardinal red, or yellow.
with jet stars, circles, studdings.
leaves, or pear-shaped beads, and
also white ribbon bands with gold,
silver, or white jet set in like
studs upon the ribbon.
A very handsome set of Greek
bands is in tortoise-shell, bound on
both edges with gold. This shape
rests upon the head in a way
which admits of drawing small ringlets through the three sec
tions. This advantageously dis
plays the grape tendril-like coif.
fure now in vogue. In fair hair, Greek bands of jet have a fine
effect. Another set is of white
enamel with coral beads forming
flowers. This style of ornament,
though costly, is very durable,
and suits reception as well as ball
dress.
–——
Fashionable Bracelets.
SLENDER bracelets are preferred
to wide bands. They are very
narrow bands, with a sort of brooch
in the back, showing a flower in
pearls, turquoises, or other stones,
or else a pendant locket; or the
back represents buckles, or a key.
or some peculiar device. The new
est bangles consist of a chain, with
pencil attached for making memo. randa; they are called shopping
bracelets.
— –
EACH mail brings us a host of
highly complimentary notices from
the press; we give the following
as an illustration –
A WoRk of ART-In spite of
all competition, D.E.M. o. R. E. ST’s
MonTEILY still holds its high posi
tion as one of the best of its kind
published in the world. It is real
ly a work of art, and in point of
typographical beauty, as well as
intrinsic excellence, it stands un
rivalled. The entire single num
ber covers sixty pages, and to
gether makes the largest in the country. We congratulate the
publishers that it has such an im
mense circulation, and can cheer.
fully say that we believe it fully
merited.—
Loomis’s Musical Monthly.

Demorests’ Monthly Magazine, Volume 14 (Google Books)

Hunting Costumes.
Now that the English hunt is
being naturalized in America,
hunting costumes will become
matters of general interest to ladies
who ride on horseback, as well as
those who take part in the sport.
The usual hunting-dress for
English ladies is a habit composed
of the usual long, plain skirt and
basque, made of very dark navy
blue, or hunting-green cloth, faced
with light-blue or with green silk
of the same shade as the green of
the cloth. The buttons are small,
and usually of frosted gilt. A
small standing collar incloses one
of linen, and both are fastened by
a little gold pin, from which de
pend the square ends of a white
lace tie.
The hat is high, and trimmed
with a gauze veil, and an Ulster
with “Carrick “cape is strapped
to the saddle to be used as a wrap,
when riding to cover, which is
always done in an open dog-cart.
—e-e-e—
Niceties of Fashion.
A VERY graceful and pretty
addition to winter toilet is the
quilted cape of pink, scarlet, blue,
or lavender silk bound with nar
row white fur or with swans
down, and intended to take the
place of what are called break
fast-shawls.
To these, as to health, there is
no real objection, for dining-rooms
are often chilly, but to the swans
down-lined peignoirs now being
introduced, and of which the entire
waist is filled with the down, there
is a very decided one. They keep
the chest and lungs even of a
delicate and chilly person entirely
too warm, causing a certain amount
of weakening perspiration about
the back and breast, which, when
another garment, even quite warm,
is substituted for the peignoir,
results inevitably in giving cold.
It is by precautions against any
chill in the atmosphere so extreme
as these that robust persons be
come delicate ones. The peignoirs
are handsome in themselves, being
of a light kind of silk resembling
Japanese and lined with light
yellow or cream-colored Florentine
silk. The sleeves at the wrists
and the neck are bound with
Swans-down.
The profuse use of swans-down
as trimming for many light ar
ticles, such as in London are called
boudoir-slips, and of which the
form is very varied—some being
short, some long—is not open to
the objection of being too warm,
though it is to that of giving bulk
to a figure however light. The
very becoming effect of the swans
down against the skin is an offset
to this, and it is disregarded for
the sake of the complexion.
A boudoir-slip of rose-colored
taffetas has a border of swans-down
and is lined and laid back with
“baby-blue.” Below the swans
down on the skirt is fluted muslin
making the garment reach to the
floor, while the still deeper under
skirt of white muslin protects the
down and flutings. The slip is
of the Watteau shape, and the
front being open exposes a tablier
of white quilted silk which is set
over the muslin skirt, and to which
the down on the slip makes a
border. Pink shoes, high heeled
with silver and with a border of
down accompany this toilette.